Lotus Elan

Elan Issues

PostPost by: Robbie693 » Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:53 pm

Elanfactory stuff has moved here by the looks of it, although registration is necessary to read some articles, including the oil primer article. Sadly looks like the registration system doesn't work at the moment:

http://www.lotusmarques.com/info/technical/29-general
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PostPost by: memini55 » Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:15 pm

Robbie thanks for finding the correct site and yes it is sad we can't register yet.

Tony on lunch today did snoop through the Melling pre-lube system and it looks to be just what is needed. The only thing I did different is I installed an air regulator at the tank with a gauge to monitor air pressure inbound and then on the output oil line to watch the pressure of oil flow. I could keep the output at about 60 psi which would be about max in the motor. If you send it in with too much psi it will open the relief valve in the pump and send all the oil to the pan.
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PostPost by: tvacc » Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:46 pm

I bought this one.

http://www.silver-seal.com/product/ELO5 ... -Tank.html

Searched around that this seemed to be a good one for about $75 less...let me know what you think.
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PostPost by: gboudreaux » Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:12 am

I made a pre oiler from a piece of 2 in. diameter pvc drain pipe. On the bottom end I cemented a plug, the other end a screw on adapter and cap. In each end I drilled a hole and tapped it pipe thread, screwed an air chuck adapter to the top end, and into the bottom plug a barbed tubing adapter. I made an adapter to fit the oil preasure guage outlet in the block from a plug with a hole in it and a piece of tubing silver soldered in. connect the two with some hose. Unscrew the pvc cap, pour in a couple of quarts of oil, screw the cap on and applied about 20 psi of air. by holding the assembly vertical the oil is slowly forced into the engine. you can see oil pool in the head as it works its way through the galleries. total cost less than 20 dollars, parts all from the home store. I have used it on several engines and works great. Gary
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PostPost by: tvacc » Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:49 am

Wish I would have waited....oh well.

gboudreaux wrote:I made a pre oiler from a piece of 2 in. diameter pvc drain pipe. On the bottom end I cemented a plug, the other end a screw on adapter and cap. In each end I drilled a hole and tapped it pipe thread, screwed an air chuck adapter to the top end, and into the bottom plug a barbed tubing adapter. I made an adapter to fit the oil preasure guage outlet in the block from a plug with a hole in it and a piece of tubing silver soldered in. connect the two with some hose. Unscrew the pvc cap, pour in a couple of quarts of oil, screw the cap on and applied about 20 psi of air. by holding the assembly vertical the oil is slowly forced into the engine. you can see oil pool in the head as it works its way through the galleries. total cost less than 20 dollars, parts all from the home store. I have used it on several engines and works great. Gary
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:33 am

The Elan factory bottle was a converted small LPG cylinder with valving on the top to connect an air supply to pressurize and a hose to discharge the oil into the oil pressure sensing port.

As an alternative you can buy a pressure weed posion sprayer from a hardware store and fit the discharge hose with a fitting to screw into the engine.

cheers
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PostPost by: tvacc » Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:06 am

Hi all.

I thought I posted this early today, but I dont see it.

Oh well.

Got word back from my machine shop. Now these are just engine guys. They could be working on a Cummins, or a Chevy or a Ford or a Ferrari. Makes no diff to them. What they told me is that the front bearing was in WRONG. 180 degrees out. The one hole lined up, but the journals in the jackshaft did not line up with the holes.
So that may be part of the problem. It appeaed to them that the rest of the motor was not getting much oil as well, so he asked me the following questions?
The oil galley that feeds where the pushrods would have been is plugged at the back but not the front. Is that normal? He also asked if the holes that feed where the push rods would have been are supposed to be open with no plugs. Because they are open. My guys seem to feel that the crank was getting wiped, with much too much wear for the few miles it was driven. Only 2 or 3.

Can someone tell me what the oil flow pattern is on the motor in these areas. We are trying to figure out what it normal and what it not. I would hate to have to pull my other Elan motor, take it apart to be able to see how one "should be" But I will if I have to.

I think you all know what I am asking here. If I did not describe myself correctly, let me know.

thanks in advance
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:35 am

This diagram is from the Lotus Elan workshop manual.

Gary
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:42 am

Tony,
Have a read of this thread as it should answer some of your questions.
elan-f15/711m-block-twin-cam-oil-passage-t24032.html
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:28 am

tvacc wrote:The oil galley that feeds where the pushrods would have been is plugged at the back but not the front. Is that normal?

Tony, I think this is normal IF you are running the shortened jackshaft, ie, utilizing the front two journals. If you don't run a mechanical fuel pump, and plan to run ONLY an electrical fuel pump, then it's possible to save a little weight and cut off the back off of the jackshaft.

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PostPost by: memini55 » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:53 am

To add a little to Gregs comments. Running the short jackshaft reduces the mass of weight and is a common practice when not using the mechanical fuel pump. When we install the new jackshaft bearings we simply rotate the rear bearing to cover the oil passage hole since there is no surface to oil. The end result is yes it is plugged.

Gary provided the flow chart out of the early manual which I would take to your motor shop so they can understand the path.
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PostPost by: tvacc » Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:46 pm

I am not running a shortened jack shaft.
I like the mechanical pump. Been there and done that with an electric pump.

I guess what I need to know is if any of the passage ways or spots where the oil comes out for the push rods needs to be plugged or blocked.
I guess that is the crux of it.

Tony
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99 Elise190, 74 Europa, 72 Europa JPS #15, 68 Elan Coupe RHD
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PostPost by: tvacc » Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:21 pm

My guys are leaning towards the oil pump being bad, as well as the bearing being 180 out.

The pump seems fine but there is not way to test it.

Let me know if you guys have any other ideas.
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PostPost by: prezoom » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:16 pm

Bearing shells without holes installed in the block have a rough time letting oil get to the crank. I once saw a Nissan A series engine, almost a carbon copy of our Ford blocks, with all 5 mains installed 180 degrees out of phase. The first rod exited, stage left, before the first turn, after leaving the pits. The driver and crew couldn't figure out what happened.

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PostPost by: tvacc » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:27 pm

The mains and rods were in fine. Just the first bearing was put in 180 degrees out.

prezoom wrote:Bearing shells without holes installed in the block have a rough time letting oil get to the crank. I once saw a Nissan A series engine, almost a carbon copy of our Ford blocks, with all 5 mains installed 180 degrees out of phase. The first rod exited, stage left, before the first turn, after leaving the pits. The driver and crew couldn't figure out what happened.

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99 Elise190, 74 Europa, 72 Europa JPS #15, 68 Elan Coupe RHD
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