Decisions Decisions .....do I replace that part?

[terryp]

Terry, Sounds good. The adjustable platform isn't critical to being able to assemble as a unit, but I would think the narrow springs are. Not a major thing, just a nice to have. If you're buying springs, fit the narrower as it does provide the option of wider tires, should that be important to you, now or in the future. Cheers, Dan

Dan
They are not on my list
But thinking about it I can't see us putting wider tyres on and I suppose we could always look at the springs then.

Thanks
Terry


PS I have to decide what to do with the engine soon ........32000 miles ------ rebuild or not rebuild???????

[stugilmour]

Terry, not sure of details but don't a lot of folks end up with wider tires simply to run close to stock rolling circumferance with more readily available modern tire profiles like 60 or 70? I think this is the issue Dan is bringing forward. 78 or 80 profile tires are difficult to source our side of the pond, but this may be less of an issue in Europe.

I would recommend trying the car without major resto work on the engine, clutch, and transmission to limit the present work scope. Pulling the engine/transmission unit with the body installed is not a complete show stopper, and realistically adds at best two weekends to the time required. Taking on the re-build at the same time as the frame / body / suspension restoration is a big undertaking and can be very stressful IMHO.

I did all the work as one project, but I contracted the engine re-build, MT75 & clutch details, and prop shaft to a specialist as I did not have the required skills. This approach worked very well as the major drivetrain components were off site during the DIY frame build and the work was done to a high standard. The drawback was the additional cost, a lot of time spent sourcing engine parts during other work, and having to transport the engine transmission to the shop and back home for installation in the frame prior to marrying the body. I also had to transport the finished car with drivetrain installed to the specialist for MOT inspection and starting / comissioning of the engine, as the specialist (quite reasonably) wanted to do the initial start-up in case there were any problems, who is at fault, damaged reputation should there be an issue, etc. The engine & transmission ended up out of the car after assembly anyway due to miss-assembly of the clutch components, and it may be coming out again this winter as this stuff is still 'not right'.

As I take it you would prefer to do most of the work yourself, keeping the drivetrain work as 'desert' and a separate project has a lot of merit. It also improves the odds of you ending up with a completed running car rather than a for sale stalled project in boxes. No one ever sets out to create one of these, and unfortunately they are all to common in the hobby. I must admit there were days I thought I was close to this outcome with the car's components all scattered about. Thankfully my BTDT friend was able to settle me down so I could perservere to completion. Gordon Lund's book has excellent advise regarding being realistic about the DIY work scope and selecting parts to contract out.

If you are skilled enough and keen on the DIY engine rebuild, just make it a separate project after you have a running (or at least assembled) car. Of course, if you want to fix the obvious on the engine like water pump, carb service, oil leaks, etc., not a big deal. I am thinking here more of a total rebuild with machining, oversize pistons, head work, etc. Question, have you at least confirmed or intending to confirm the car starts prior to taking it to bits?

[terryp]

Stu
I think the problem with my engine is that it hasn't been run for 26 years?
The water pump turns as does the engine. The adjuster screw for the timing belt looks quite long.

But if the engine wasn't turned for a number of years , would the valve springs lose their springiness, would the water pump seal be gone.
My intention was to remove the head, decoke , regrind the valves , renew all gaskets, change the clutch, water pump, valve springs, check everything that could be checked easily and hopefully that would be it?

I do take your point about progress but I have only had the car 2 weeks and , front suspension is out, parts are on order, I can probably commit 1 day per week so I would imagine that after 6 months I should see a big change. It is supposed to be a slow hobby for me but I do tend to do things with Gusto

Having said that it is -5 degrees at present so the garage isn't looking very inviting tomorrow

With the tyres , you can get 155/80's here so I thought I would try them first. I don't like the look of very wide tyres as I think the cars lose their 60's styling
http://www.1001pneus.fr/Pneus/22002/YOK ... RISME.html (Yokohamas S760's)

I did this all before on my Ginetta G15 ......but that was 25 years ago!
and that was without the internet, forums, online parts, emails and eBay

Thanks

Terry

[stugilmour]

Ah yes Terry the cold gararge. I know that one well as we routinely get -30 C here, and +10 C is called a Hot August Night.

Your tire selection is huge! I may just risk my school boy French and order original profile tires for the Plus 2!

Yes, your engine scope of work makes sense to me and should be done with the body off. I was more thinking of complete re-build. You have way better skills than me if you are OK with the head work. Back in the day my friend who was the Lotus dealer in Vancouver would recommend customers get the head done in his shop rather than take it on; I guess this advice has stuck with me.

[ardee_selby]

I have to decide what to do with the engine soon ........32000 miles ------rebuild or not rebuild???????

Terry,

Looking at "Seat Preservation" might not be the obvious choice to look for info but grab a glass of wine and have a look at this thread:

elan-f15/seat-preservation-t24013.html

Note Marks' worst case scenario. As you have said the 32K miles isn't the major consideration...it's the conditions seen in storage for the last 26 years...hopefully in your case it won't be too bad and what you intend to do will allow internals to be given the once over.

Bon chance - Richard

P.S. I'm sure you and Gusto will get it sorted in no time!

[terryp]

Back in the day my friend who was the Lotus dealer in Vancouver would recommend customers get the head done in his shop rather than take it on; I guess this advice has stuck with me.

Presumably its no more difficult than an Imp head?

[terryp]

Note Marks' worst case scenario. As you have said the 32K miles isn't the major consideration...it's the conditions seen in storage for the last 26 years...hopefully in your case it won't be too bad and what you intend to do will allow internals to be given the once over.

Car had 100% antifreeze in and oil in the bores so fingers crossed!

Gusto (my imaginary friend) will be helping!

Terry

[rgh0]

hi Rohan,
so i take it that you would still recommend the "Aussie" ones Where are those C'V's made as a matter of interrest and by who
Alan B

The elantrikbits site gives details - he uses GKN Lobro OEM joints - same as you find used on most german cars and others and they should be readily available through any large bearing supplier as they are a generic part. These days they may be made in China for all I know like so much is but its the specification and quality control that counts not where the are actually made.

I am sure Col can tell you where they come from. And yes I would still recommend them - my early versions have lasted 30 years without problem in both the Plus 2 and Elan. I started with second hand VW beetle units and have only ever had to replace one on the Elan and none on the Plus 2, The were the same Lobro units as available new today

http://www.elantrikbits.com/

[alan.barker]

Terry could you tell me what adjustable rear shocks that you decded to order. On my 1972 Elan Sprint fhc i have Konis, which are super. If you fit Protech be carefull where they fit in the lotocone
A+ Alan B

[terryp]

Alan
They are TTR "own brand" shocks ,perhaps replica Konis.

Gusto is calling me to work in the garage but its -2degrees at present so I am reluctant.

OK OK Gusto I'm coming now ........ its hardwork having an imaginary friend

Terry

[terryp]

More decisions !!!!!
I had thought the rack had loads of play but I have now found that it was the steering joint. I can't feel any play in the rack at all, is there a method to check this other than by hand?

My steering wheel has a very small crack on one of the spokes, is this OK or does it have to be replaced?

Hand brake rod snapped ...new one of those is needed

Other than that all good today , side reinforcement not rusted, brake master cylinder not seized, seat belt mountings OK and rear A frames look OK , although not quite off the car yet!

Thanks
Terry

[ardee_selby]

More decisions !!!!! Terry

You have a PM.

Richard

[terryp]

Richard
See picture

Its on the biggest hole on the bottom spoke
Does anyone recognise the type of steering wheel as it may be a cheap one?

Thanks
Terry

[ardee_selby]

Richard See picture

Its on the biggest hole on the bottom spoke. Does anyone recognise the type of steering wheel as it may be a cheap one? Thanks Terry

Hmmm...the crack appears to have a corresponding bend on the other side of the hole.

I suspect it's been used regularly as a support to "lever" the driver in & out!

It looks like the old "Mountney" wheel I've got somewhere. Or "Astrali"? Whatever, I'd replace it even if Mr.MOT might not spot it.

Richard

[terryp]

Thanks Richard
If anyone can post a link to where I can buy one, the ones I can find have a bigger hole in the centre. This wheel is 13.5inches,what was orginal?
Well Steering wheel and steering joint on the list but possible saving on the rack

Terry