Lotus Elan

Decisions Decisions .....do I replace that part?

PostPost by: collins_dan » Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:27 pm

Terry, The only thing I can add to the discussion is that I recently replaced my front and rear suspension, and it is very easy to do with the body on. So if the parts prove to be a problem later, then you replace them. The rear bearings are a pain. The only difference is that later you will have to take the strut off again to replace them, but that is not that big a deal. Good Luck with the project. Take pictures. Cheers, Dan
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PostPost by: elangtv2000 » Wed Feb 01, 2012 3:24 pm

Terry,
Congratulations on the new Elan. Rather than tell you what you should do, this is what I'd do if the car were mine (I've already got two and have done all of these things many times on my own and others' Elans).
Brake disks: clean with brass wire wheel on pneumatic or electric drill, or gently bead blast clean. Check thickness and flatness, replace if out of spec - they are cheap.
Front wheel bearings: pull hubs, clean out 26+ year old grease, inspect bearings and replace if needed, or re-grease if not.
Front shocks: I would replace only because good Konis, or even other performance shocks work better than Armstrongs, particularly those that are 26 years old. If I wanted to get some use out of the car first, I'd gently bend the stud into position and use the car.
Rear shocks: not as easy a job, so I'd drive the car and see how the rear end feels. Again, good inserts make a huge difference in handling, but this costs more and takes more time, so I'd be inclined to put that off a bit.
Rear wheel bearings: these are sealed, so while the old grease may have turned to glue, as long as the surface rust has not also made its way past the bearing seals, I'd leave them alone - it's a job for a specialist or experienced owner, or one looking to become experienced right away.
Cheers,
Greg T.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:37 am

Terry,
i imagine after your big problem with the water pump on your +2s130 you are going to fit a Burton water pump and housing :wink: + a revotec. It also seems that there are problems with the Mick Miller c.v"s. On the baby Elans they move through bigger angles than on the +2s
bon courage
Alan B
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:45 am

Alan
The problem with the water pump got better, there was never much or any play and it was only a very occasional drip. Someone on the forum just said to drive it more which I did and all was OK.
I think there is a problem with newer CV joints. Susan Miller isn't selling them anymore. Stuart at TTR said that there were issues with the actual Chinese manufacture of the CV joint itself. So with the new Elan I have gone for TTR UJs Driveshafts 8) 8) 8) 8)
Radiator is also ordered and it one of these ...elan-plus-f13/bits-for-the-car-t22951.html so will run pretty cool!

All the best
Terry
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:49 am

Greg
I think sound advice , I am going to just replace the front and rear shocks as I need droop resistant rear ones with the drive shafts. The thing was that I had in my budget an element for having stuff shot blasted and painted and now having had to buy new wishbones , there is really only the rear A frames left which can easily be dealt with by the drill and the wire brush, so my saving can pay well nearly pay for new shocks!

Thanks
Terry
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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Fri Feb 03, 2012 11:00 am

terryp wrote:I think there is a problem with newer CV joints. Susan Miller isn't selling them anymore. Stuart at TTR said that there were issues with the actual Chinese manufacture of the CV joint itself.


That is valuable bit of info...it counters so much of what has been recommended in the archives!

Cheers - Richard
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Feb 03, 2012 11:46 am

i would say don't fit Spax shocks (rubbish) and i know of problems with Protech shocks.
IMHO the only shocks worth fitting are KONIS
Alan B
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Feb 03, 2012 12:09 pm

I think you will find plenty of good cv joints still exist in the world - just pay attention to where they come from and remember you get what you pay for.

TTR have never liked Cv's as they much prefer to sell their 26R style UJ and spline version which is only natural

cheers
Rohan
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Feb 03, 2012 1:58 pm

hi Rohan,
so i take it that you would still recommend the "Aussie" ones :mrgreen: Where are those C'V's made as a matter of interrest :?: and by who :!:
Alan B
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:30 pm

Sounds like the payment to TTR just gets a little greater. I just install the TTR fast road front and rear shocks and springs and are very happy with them. I don't want to make more work for you, but if you give a mouse a cookie... (don't know if that book is popular in France, but the insight is so true). I would suggest changing the spring platform to adjustable and using the 2.25" rear springs. It is a small expense and gives a lot of flexibility for tires, ride height... One other advantage is that it allows for assembly of the lotocone to the chapman strut, so that the whole unit can be added and removed in one piece. (This was Rohan's suggestion.) Just use button head socket cap screws for install the lotocone. Very low profile and very easy to access. Hope you are having fun! Dan
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:23 pm

Interesting thread Terry with lots of interest and suggestions. I fell into the 'fix / replace it while I am there' trap on my car, and it can cost a lot.

One thing I either forgot or ignored (that I don't see on your list) was the differential, which was a mistake. Consider changing seals at least if you see signs of oil in this area. I suppose it wasn't that bad taking it out with the body back on my car, but I have a Spyder frame which makes a big difference. I would have dreaded that job on the stock frame. My original frame was so distorted in the diff area from jacking the car up that we ended up cutting it out as we were tossing the frame out anyway. Not sure of the DIY degree of difficulty on the seal renewal as I had it done by a specialist when I changed the crown & pinion for a ratio change. This was 'rookie mistake' on my part as the evidence of excessive diff leakage was plain to see on my car prior to disassembly. :?

If you are replacing rear shocks, retain the top nuts in case you need them. On my Plus 2 I think they were a machined nut to centre the shock push rod in the Lotocone? Anyway, the new shocks have a Nyloc and don't centre correctly causing a rear suspension rattle. I might not have this fully right, but there has been a number of mentions of this issue and I am trying to sort out over the winter.

Best of luck with the project and keep the updates coming. Where the heck are all those lovely fresh parts :mrgreen: being stored while you do the work? :) I know I 'took over' our finished basement for storage and the dash re-wiring for a year or two, which is a good thing to negotiate ahead of time. :) Looking back this I think was another 'rookie mistake'. :wink:
Last edited by stugilmour on Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:49 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:39 pm

Terry
Can't see any mention of trunnions, take them apart, clean check and re-lubricate (oil or grease as per your preference, lots of advice on the site).

I would also inspect and consider replacing most rubber parts, including suspension bushes. Replace hydraulic seals in brakes and clutch, it will also give you chance to check the brake callipers and of course replace the fluids.

You will also need to replace the tyres no matter how much tread is left. New fan belt?

Mike
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:11 pm

Mike - All those bits either new or rebuilt!
Stu - Seals are on my list with Susan Miller, hopefully they are quite easy to do
Dan - Adjustable rear shocks ordered but I could not stretch to all the bits associated with adjustable ride height to the rears.

Its a big list , I won't say how much but I am still under the global budget .....just
Hopefully no surprises this weekend!

Thanks to all
Terry
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:38 pm

Terry, Sounds good. The adjustable platform isn't critical to being able to assemble as a unit, but I would think the narrow springs are. Not a major thing, just a nice to have. If you're buying springs, fit the narrower as it does provide the option of wider tires, should that be important to you, now or in the future. Cheers, Dan
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Feb 03, 2012 5:42 pm

stugilmour wrote:Where the heck are all those lovely fresh parts :mrgreen: being stored while you do the work? :) I know I 'took over' our finished basement for storage and the dash re-wiring for a year or two, which is a good thing to negotiate ahead of time. :) Looking back this I think was another 'rookie mistake'. :wink:


Interesting point, I had thought our living room .....it is my wifes car!

Terry
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