archigator wrote:Disconnect the W/B (Blue on my car) and Green wires totally? Should the W/B (Blue on my car)wire connect to the Green wire then?
UPDATE: I just checked the power to both the W/B (Blue on my car) wire and the Green wire individually. Each has power to it individually when I turn the ignition key to the next-to-last position before turning-over the engine. Should that be happening; should both wires to the tach show power when the key is in the next-to-last position? I also have the original White wire running from the #2 position on the ignition to the positive side of the coil, totally independent of the tach...
Thanks,
Gary
'71 Sprint FHC
Miami, Florida
Yes, I would try starting the car with the wires disconnected from the tach to separate any tach issues from the ignition circuit. The car should run without the tach. You should not have to join any of the tach wires together to make this check. See below, but I would first attempt this check with the tach sensor wire disconnected from the negative coil terminal; i.e. only the wire from the -ve coil terminal to the distributor and the white to the +ve coil terminal connected.
Yes, both of the noted wires should be hot in run and start positions of the ignition key. They should be zero volts on off and acc'y positions of the ignition key.
The green wire is presumably the power wire to the tach. Green means "hot in run and start - fused" in the standard wiring schema. The White / Black? or Blue? in your case is the sensor wire from the coil. It is 'seeing' current flowing to ground thru the coil from the positive coil terminal White (hot in run and start - unfused) as the points open and close electrically. The sensor wire 'sees' the on and off of the coil as a wave form which is interpreted by the tach electronics and transformed into a reading on the gauge face.
The ignition circuit should be powered by the White on the positive coil terminal, and should all work with or without the tach. As you are presently unsure of the tach condition and perhaps uncertain of some of the connections, I would try to get the car started without it being in play. You of course cannot fix the tach if the car won't start, so getting the car starting again would be mission one.
The green wire to the tach is probably not an issue for the ignition circuit. If it were grounded inappropriately within the tach due to some sort of failure/damage the fuse would have blown. I am thinking that the tach is potentially interfering with the ignition somehow, perhaps grounding out the ignition circuit (due to an incorrect connection or internal fault) preventing the points from doing their on & off thing. If the coil is not going on & off, there will be no spark, which is what you described as your issue.
Once the car is running correctly you can return to sorting out the tach connections and function. I don't have a RVI in my car, but what you are describing above seems to make sense to me so not sure of the specific issue, or know how to check it further. It could be a minor connection error caused by confusion of the terminal positions on the tach, or it could be internal failure of the tach; the folks with the RVI tach model will know better.