Lotus Elan

Wasted weekend, next time I'll ask first...

PostPost by: collins_dan » Mon Dec 13, 2010 2:55 pm

I'm sure everyone has had this experience, when you are about 4 hours into a project and it dawns on you that this was never going to work in the first place.

I wanted to take the 1 piece header (exhaust manifold) off my S4 in order to send it off for ceramic coating to reduce engine and lhd passenger compartment temperatures. I guess I should have asked someone if this was possible without removing the head.

I got the header and exhaust system off and apart (1 hour), it wouldn't come out the top or bottom. Well, maybe if take off the engine mount, it will come out the bottom (another 1 hour or so), no go. Maybe if I remove the alternator (maybe another 1/2 hour), not going to happen. I have an original frame with fixed cross member. Duh! The only way this header is coming out, is up and the head needs to come off first, which I am not prepared to do at this time. Another 4 hours later, its all back together. What a waste. Next time, I'll ask first.

Please feel free to share you own stories of wasted weekends, after which you promise, next time I'll ask first. (It may make me feel a little less stupid.)

Cheers, Dan
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PostPost by: Old English White » Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:10 pm

... Best way I found
1: remove the water hoses , airbox .
2: use a bottle jack under the engine .
3: remove the 2 engine mounts...
4: undo the manifold bolts
5: slide the engine using large piece of wood or eq. this to allow more space on the opposite side...
6: the manifold (TTR big bore on standard studs and aero.std (half height) bolts) ll fall down after removing the alternator ...
Anyway , much(too much) time arround the damm thing!
Christian. :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Mon Dec 13, 2010 5:34 pm

Yes as Christian says it's quite possible.

The key thing is engine mounts off so that you can push the engine across.

If you watch the UK Wheeler Dealers Elan video (4 parts) he actually demonstrates in not too much detail, how to do it :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTS1pHPk_Uc
John

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PostPost by: lotocone » Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:20 pm

Dan says he has a 1 piece header. I think that means the 4 flanges are all connected. The ones I have seen have 2 pieces and they come off much easier, as far I as I know. I've never tried to remove a 1 piece . The car on Wheelers Dealers has 2 pieces.
Bob
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PostPost by: Old English White » Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:29 pm

I must admit , the TTR big bore is in two parts ...
But , have you ever try to remove them one at once !?!
No way.
Christian. :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:10 pm

The TTR manifolds are easy if you go from the bottom up with car off the ground ( remove ant-roll bar and cross brace)

top down and you are dealing with shifting the engine and it take awhile.

With the all in one unit my guess is same as TTR . only remove the motor mount and support the engine.

R&R on donuts is my example of where technique would have saved time .

George

BTW 4 into 1 ( 4 legs and a collector) are the easiest
Last edited by cabc26b on Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:28 pm

Attached is a picture of a new version of the header on my car. My frame is original and the cross-brace is welded to the frame, so its not coming off. I'm not even sure if I removed the 2 engine mounts and the carbs that I could move the engine enough to get it out either the top or the bottom. Next time the head is off, I will pull the header and get it coated. Until then, I'm going to try adding insulation to the front of lhd driver's footwell, or switch the fans back to pushing, instead of a pulling. When the fans are on the pulling side, they blow a lot of air over the header right at the driver. Thanks, Dan
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:52 pm

Dan,
That's not going to come out even if you move the engine over as far as it will go. Looks like you will get pretty good gas-flow through that thing but it is intended to go in and out with the engine.
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PostPost by: summerinmaine » Wed Dec 15, 2010 7:56 pm

Don't mean to hijack, but I'm about to re-install my engine/trans into the Spyder frame. I'd like to include the 4/2/1 header into the package as well, but don't want to mount it on the block unless I'm pretty sure it'll fit as a unit. I still have studs, and not bolts, which creates a clearance issue if I mount the header after the engine install.

I can remove the engine mounts if necessary, to swing the unit to the far side, but obviously would prefer not. If it matters, I've ditched the Lucas starter, and installed a gear reduction nippon denso, which will change the clearance on the right hand side.

My sense is it should work, but any FHE would be appreciated.
Jim

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PostPost by: collins_dan » Thu Dec 16, 2010 12:58 am

Having now spent quite a bit of time staring at it, my guess would be, if there is no cross brace and roll bar, that you can put the engine in, then put the 421 header in from the bottom onto the studs, then install the engine mounts, put nuts on studs, connect to exhaust, alternator... Dan
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