Lotus Elan

Roadster screen tensioning rods terminations

PostPost by: garyeanderson » Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:19 am

Rod Little was asking about the screen tensioner used on the Elan Roadsters (S1 and S2) over on the yahoo Elan group, I believe that he has an early S1 and while I don't have any S1's I have a couple S2's with the removeable screen frame and I think that the tension rods are the same so I took a couple of pictures (because I have some apart so its relatively easy). There are two screen frames that were used, this was discussed in an early thread that Anna started

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=14618&view=next

here are a couple of photos of a well used tension rod and the ends where it mounts to the windscreen frame.

Bottom or screen frame with tensioner nut (spoke nipple) and washer
Image

Top area where the tensioner comes through where the rear view mirror mounts.
Image

Top of the screen frame where the convertable top slipps into the groove. The photo is up side down.
Image
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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Thu Sep 02, 2010 1:04 pm

Thanks for the photos, Gary. I have been looking at the rod carefully (for the first time in 43 years) in preparation for the upcoming windscreen replacement. It is already a little loose so I hope I can just leave it alone. But I've put a little penetrating oil on the nipple, just in case.

I haven't tried to get a spoke wrench on the nipple yet - the access is terrible with the frame mounted to the car and the crash pad in place. Anyone tried adjusting the tension with everything in installed in the car?
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:11 pm

RotoFlexible wrote:Thanks for the photos, Gary. I have been looking at the rod carefully (for the first time in 43 years) in preparation for the upcoming windscreen replacement. It is already a little loose so I hope I can just leave it alone. But I've put a little penetrating oil on the nipple, just in case.

I haven't tried to get a spoke wrench on the nipple yet - the access is terrible with the frame mounted to the car and the crash pad in place. Anyone tried adjusting the tension with everything in installed in the car?


Hi Andy

I have swapped out quite a few windscreens and I've not ever had to mess around with the tension rod. I would be surprised if you had to. I would more than likely replace the rubber gasket and the filler strip as the gasket will be hard and the filler strip will be pretty tired too. Your call I guess.

Gary
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PostPost by: BillGavin » Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:23 pm

Gary -

Is the 'head' at the top of the windscreen part of the rod, or is it another nipple like on the bottom?

Also, you could list the diameter of the spoke, my S2 is close to .185", although I had trouble getting a good measurement. Andy might know what standard spoke size falls near that.

Are you ready for the hurricane?

- Bill
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:37 pm

When I was rebuilding my S2 (the first time) I had no manual, no forum and no other S1/2 to look at :( all I had was a bit of the rod with the nipple on that had been cut off by the DPO.
I made up a rod from a thin antenna as I recall, brazing on the top nipple,then brazing on a threaded piece at the bottom for a knurled thumb screw (the type that goes on instruments and gauges)
By taking out the radio I am able to get to the thumb screw for tensioning.....might not be original but it works for me :roll:
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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:55 pm

BillGavin wrote:Is the 'head' at the top of the windscreen part of the rod, or is it another nipple like on the bottom?
If this photo from the Type 26 Register is accurate, the head is integral to the spoke, err, rod. (It appears to me that they are selling bicycle spokes for 39 GBP, if so, more power to them!)

Also, you could list the diameter of the spoke, my S2 is close to .185", although I had trouble getting a good measurement. Andy might know what standard spoke size falls near that.
I will try to put a wrench on the spoke nipple this evening and check the diameter of the rod itself.

Are you ready for the hurricane?
Not a problem for me - different story for Gary!
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Thu Sep 02, 2010 3:07 pm

BillGavin wrote:Gary -

Is the 'head' at the top of the windscreen part of the rod, or is it another nipple like on the bottom?

Also, you could list the diameter of the spoke, my S2 is close to .185", although I had trouble getting a good measurement. Andy might know what standard spoke size falls near that.

Are you ready for the hurricane?

- Bill


Hub spoke end is at the top and the tensioning nipple is at the bottom under the scuttle were its difficult to get at. The wire diameter is .080 inch or 2mm

I boarded up the attic vent on the south side as a couple of the vent slats had fallen out. I need to do some other stuff today, like weight down the membrane roofing material that is covering up Tingle's racecar body on the back porch and move in some chairs. I saw this morning the Earl was a sustained 115 knot storm (now 125 knot), my folks are in Nantucket this week and I just talked to my mother and not to much happening there. I guess we will know more in 24 to 36 hours. The projected storm track looks like a classic, right up the coastline and no landfall. I just hope it doesn't slow down and hang around. Looks like 2am Saturday morning may be a bit breezy. I guess looking at this latest projection I may want to take another look around. Well ya know this just sucks abit, I was looking forward to going out to Lime Rock Saturday but I looks like that may not happen this year?

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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:30 pm

garyeanderson wrote:Hub spoke end is at the top and the tensioning nipple is at the bottom under the scuttle were its difficult to get at. The wire diameter is .080 inch or 2mm

.080" on my car also. That is a 14ga spoke, and two of my older bikes have that size. It appears to be common. I couldn't get a spoke wrench anywhere near the nipple on the car, but on my bike, it's a "green" wrench (standard color coding I believe) which equates to a .130" nipple. You'd have to cut the spoke wrench down a lot to get it in there, or cut the handle off completely and braze on a new handle.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:58 am

Image

This photo kind of sucks but it gives you an idea of "the calm before the storm" the flash went off and took away the good color that I was seeing. I had to pull the gamma down to .30 to get back somewhat closer to what I saw. Looks like the forecast says low category 1 winds so maybe 75mph gusts, it ought to clean the trees of foliage and knock down some firewood but not a show stopper I wouldn't think, Maybe Beau and I will be heading to Lime Rock in the morning after all.

I measured the spoke nipple this morning and I read .143 inch, Andy is that a common size?
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:55 pm

garyeanderson wrote:Maybe Beau and I will be heading to Lime Rock in the morning after all.

Hey Gary - still a nice photo. My plan is to get to LRP tomorrow. In my neck of the woods the question will be tree damage, we'll see. Carl and Jim Goodman are planning on Saturday as well. TNT is supposed to deliver my new set of internal bits from Quaife for the Elite's ZF box today. I hope I get home before the rain starts so I can get $$$ parts out of the driveway before they get soaked. The tensioner rod at 0.143" (3.6 mm) is pretty fat by bicycle standards if that is the question. Common bicycle spoke diameters are 1.6 mm (16 ga), 1.8 mm (15 ga) and 2.0 mm (14 ga). Oh, a bit more research shows that a 9 gauge wire is 0.144" in diameter by the British Imperial Standard.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:09 pm

Hi Russ

Glad to see you are supporting the economy. I hope to see you there tomorrow. As far as the dimension goes that is not the wire diameter but the spoke nipple wrench size. Of cource I got it wrong, I measured it in the attic with the 100 watt bulb and basicly using brail to insure that I got the mike on the flats of the nipple. Guess what, I didn't. the new measurement says .134 inch

I was going to post a new topic on the non-failsafe vacuum system for Rod Little but I got tied up with another reply that I didn't expect this morning. Maybe I'll get it done a bit later durring Earl.
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PostPost by: rodlittle » Sat Sep 04, 2010 5:56 pm

I measured my old corroded rod and its 2mm so Ive bought some 2mm stainless rods ( welding rods) now to make a blob on one end and cut a thread on the other end
cheers
rod
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PostPost by: summerinmaine » Sun Sep 05, 2010 12:08 am

rodlittle wrote:I measured my old corroded rod and its 2mm so Ive bought some 2mm stainless rods ( welding rods) now to make a blob on one end and cut a thread on the other end
cheers
rod



I was thinking that if they are indeed bicycle spokes, then a nice double butted stainless spoke would look classy, or they are available anodized in black.

Don't know what the high zoot brands are these days, but back in my era they were Robergel Trois Etoiles IIRC, and usually available in a variety of lengths and gauges..
Jim

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PostPost by: rodlittle » Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:26 pm

Every bike shop I visted sucked in their breath and said nooo nothing that long or that diameter sir
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PostPost by: summerinmaine » Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:37 pm

rodlittle wrote:Every bike shop I visted sucked in their breath and said nooo nothing that long or that diameter sir
cheers
rod



Seems you've just been visiting the wrong bike shops! :D


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