Lotus Elan

Catastrophe on Elan ownership day one!

PostPost by: Steve G » Fri Apr 23, 2010 8:44 am

qedmotorsport wrote:
Steve G wrote:I have had no reply from QED from my email a few weeks ago [...]


Hello Steve,

You emailed us on the late afternoon of the 6th April, we replied on the early morning of the 8th April. Please check your junk/spam folder...


I'm an idiot, it did get spammed, thanks for getting back to me very promptly Simon! :oops:
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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Apr 23, 2010 1:12 pm

Wow that catalogue is GREAT.

Not just a catalogue but a whole explanation of bolt & stud technology.

Here one important paragraph that I never knew.

" Following the engine manufacturer?s
torque sequence, tighten the bolts three times
to the recommended torque value found on
the instructions provided with each kit."

THREE TIMES! I take it that that means. Tighten then loosen then tighten then loosen then tighten each time to the correct torque.

And I think I am going to buy a better torque wrench after reading that catalogue, didn't realise that preceise figures were THAT critical.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:56 am

"Fit rev limiting rotor arm to optical distributor"


You may find that the lumenition optical components foul the larger rev limiting arm. You will need to fit an external electronic rev limiter - at least that is what i found

regards
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PostPost by: alaric » Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:55 pm

Steve, looking for the silver lining, have the possibly poorly torqued up flywheel bolts actually limited the damage to the rest of your engine? Hope I torqued mine up properly...

Sean.
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PostPost by: Steve G » Sat Apr 24, 2010 10:27 pm

alaric wrote:Steve, looking for the silver lining, have the possibly poorly torqued up flywheel bolts actually limited the damage to the rest of your engine? Hope I torqued mine up properly...

Sean.


I think you're right, a bit of good news today, took the block to the engine rebuilder and he thinks the flywheel can be saved.

Rohan, thanks for tip, might go for the adjustable electronic rev limiter anyway. Mount the unit in the glove box or under dash.

Had to lift the block on my own into my car today, my God it's a heavy little lump. Glad it's not a V8!
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PostPost by: 512BB » Sun Apr 25, 2010 8:33 am

Steve

The reason that only one weber choke was connected, is because you NEVER use the choke when starting a TC on webers, even in the winter. Two or three pumps on the quick pedal before turning it over is all the priming it will need, all other things being equal. So the outer cable is just run to the first weber for show.

Secondly, looking at your pics of the flywheel, if it were mine, I would bin it. The mounting bolt holes look elongated to me, and would therefore allow movement where there should be none. Dont skimp on buying another, better condition one, to save yourself 40 odd quid. its just not worth it.

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PostPost by: paddy » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:58 am

Was the engine man was suggesting something like sleeving the flywheel holes? I suppose that would be sound, but still the labour would I guess soon go over the cost of a good condition used flywheel.

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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sun Apr 25, 2010 12:24 pm

paddy wrote:Was the engine man was suggesting something like sleeving the flywheel holes?


I wouldn't give that idea a moments thought!!!!

Difficult and costly to get right - and every time you start the engine you would think of it.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:00 pm

512BB wrote:Steve

The reason that only one weber choke was connected, is because you NEVER use the choke when starting a TC on webers, even in the winter. Two or three pumps on the quick pedal before turning it over is all the priming it will need, all other things being equal. So the outer cable is just run to the first weber for show.

Leslie


Also in fact there isn't a second CABLE to the forward carb. It's done with a short thin rod with a loop formed at each end.

However as I've found out at very long length: As Leslie implies, if you ever find that you need to use the 'choke' to start the car it is time to do a thorough refurb of the carburettors especially the accellerator pump mechanism.
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PostPost by: paddy » Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:27 pm

bcmc33 wrote:
paddy wrote:Was the engine man was suggesting something like sleeving the flywheel holes?


I wouldn't give that idea a moments thought!!!!


Fair enough. I'm still curious to know what he is suggesting doing with it.

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PostPost by: Pastapesto » Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:23 pm

Bill
I may be wrong here but isn't it the Dellortos that have the rod with a loop at each end that works both chokes together?. I think the webers used a cable, although as previously stated, you should not ever have a need to use it.

All the best

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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:00 am

Pastapesto wrote:Bill
I may be wrong here but isn't it the Dellortos that have the rod with a loop at each end that works both chokes together?. I think the webers used a cable, although as previously stated, you should not ever have a need to use it.

All the best

Adam


Heh Heh, just after I wrote that above, I thought... Oh, maybe that is only the Delorto cards.
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PostPost by: 512BB » Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:31 am

Or carbs even Bill!

But to be 100% correct, for weber carbs, the outer metal sheath just runs to the rearmost carb, with the inner bowden cable running through the eye to both front and back carbs. The cable is then clamped by way of a set screw on both carbs, so that IF the choke knob was pulled, both choke mechanisms would be synchronised. But as I said earlier, it would never be pulled, unless your car happened to be stolen by a couple of boneheads, as mine was, 30 odd years ago. They crashed it about 10 miles away, breaking a rear A frame, and thus halting their progress. Thats how I got it back. On looking inside, I noticed that the choke knob had been pulled right out of the dashboard, and thought that it must have been non T/c knowlegeable thieves. FIN

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PostPost by: Steve G » Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:03 am

Well that's all very interesting. The fact is that the choke cable was supposed to be attached to both carbs but had snapped at some point. The previous owner told me that I would need to use the choke on cold mornings and besides, even if I'm never going to use it I want it set up right. Why enrich the fuel mixture to two of the cylinders?

Trevor (engine rebuilder) thinks that he can 'sleeve' the flywheel bolt holes with no problem. I would never have considered this but he thinks it will be fine. I trust him completely and he's only going to look at doing it and if he thinks it won't be good enough I will happily buy a new one. He builds race engines for vintage motorcycles and has more kit in his workshop than I've seen at some small engineering firms!

He's also going to weld and polish out some previous scarring that has occurred around cylinder head number 4. It looks like it's within the gasket so wouldn't cause head gasket failure but we're going to fix it anyway. I will post before and after pictures up.

I forgot to add to my list, horn and handbrake, both MOT failures and inoperative so I'll have to get them fixed before taxing the car ( I had to declare it SORN last month).
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PostPost by: paddy » Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:11 am

Steve G wrote:Well that's all very interesting. The fact is that the choke cable was supposed to be attached to both carbs but had snapped at some point. The previous owner told me that I would need to use the choke on cold mornings and besides, even if I'm never going to use it I want it set up right. Why enrich the fuel mixture to two of the cylinders?


I think I read somewhere that it is recommended only to use the choke on the webers when the temperature is below -10 C. I'm not sure where I read it and can't find it now. Anyway, it is very rare, if ever, that it is needed in practice. As Leslie said, it is meant to operate both carbs, and you could fit it so everything is "correct", but the practical value is almost negligible. I'm sure lots of people don't bother. For me it is permanently on the "when I get around to it" list.

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