The restoration of 45/7286

PostPost by: rcombs » Mon Jun 13, 2016 4:04 pm

Thought I would post some more pictures of the frame progress so far:

020.jpg and


012.jpg and


013.jpg and


014.jpg and


015.jpg and


016.jpg and


019.jpg and


022.jpg and


023.jpg and
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PostPost by: rcombs » Mon Jun 13, 2016 4:23 pm

These pictures are of the body as delivered by the shop that did the last prime and paint. The color isn't quite as dark as I wanted, but I was picking color from small chips. I wanted Imron so my colors were a little limited. The shop (Trophy Girl Kustoms) did a great job. Got it in, blocked, painted and buffed in a little over a week.

030.jpg and


031.jpg and


032.jpg and


I blacked out the trunk, engine bay and under rocker area this weekend. I used satin black epoxy, and applied it like the factory... with a 3" brush. Mad dogs and English men..geez. If figure if I don't like it I can sand and spray.

039.jpg and


040.jpg and


045.jpg and


046.jpg and


042.jpg and


043.jpg and

I wrapped the black around like the factory front and back.
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PostPost by: Certified Lotus » Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:05 am

Rick, everything is coming along nicely. Making great progress. Looks like you will be done before LOG36! why not do your shake down drive all the way to Princeton and join us for LOG36 :D
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PostPost by: Andy8421 » Tue Jun 14, 2016 6:54 am

Restoration looks great. Must get my finger out and start on my Elan...

For what its worth, it may well be an optical illusion, but the forks on the UJs on the rear driveshaft don't seem to be in the same plane. I don't know if the spline can be pulled all the way out and reinserted at a different angle, but it is very important for the 'double cardan' action to take place that the forks are in the same plane - particularly given the relatively large angles that Elan rear driveshafts can adopt.
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PostPost by: rcombs » Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:49 am

Thanks Guys,

It is coming along, but still have a ways to go. I don't think I would be brave enough for that long of a shake down cruise. Maybe next year. I am trying to get it done by the end of August. There is a nice show I want to put it in if it's ready.

Andy,

Thanks for the info on the u-joints. I will check that and correct if required.

Rick
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PostPost by: rcombs » Tue Sep 06, 2016 7:51 pm

It's been a while so I thought I would post a few pictures. I have the drive train and most other items mounted so I dropped the body on and mounted the wheels and tires.

052.jpg and


054.jpg and


055.jpg and


057.jpg and


It's setting higher than I think it should, but we'll see as I get some weight on it.

I have the trim items out to the chrome shop. I should have them back by the first part of October.

That's it for now.

Rick
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:13 pm

Brilliant, just love threads like this...
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PostPost by: rcombs » Thu Sep 08, 2016 1:20 pm

I started looking at the electrical harness and noticed there has been a short just before the harness goes into the trunk. I pulled the whole thing out of the car so I can look it over and decide whether or not to replace the whole thing or just the body section. I'm looking at British Wiring in Pennsylvania, has anyone here used them?

Also, I was looking at my photos and the harness was just ran behind the fuel filler tube, to the right tail light, then along the back panel to the right tail light. The harness wasn't fastened anywhere. Is this the way it came from Lotus?

Thanks,
Rick
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Thu Sep 08, 2016 1:28 pm

.......it's a new frame OR your 100hrs of labour: I'd say a new chassis is BETTER and cheaper - i am a mech. engineer! sandy --- hope you aren't too depressed, after these purist's words.
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PostPost by: patrics » Thu Sep 08, 2016 2:07 pm

Hi Rick,
Looks good but are you really going to use the plastic clutch pipe?

Regards
Steve
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PostPost by: rcombs » Thu Sep 08, 2016 3:40 pm

Sandy,
Not 100 hrs, maybe 40. Dimensions checkout before and after welding so I think I'm ok. Mechanical engineer huh, poor guy... me too. When I restored my Mustang about 20 years ago I put all new panels and fenders on instead of fixing the originals. BIG mistake.

Steve,
50 year old nylon tubing scare you?! Nylon is pretty tough as long as it's out of the sun. I have been thinking about a new on though.

Rick
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PostPost by: The Veg » Thu Sep 08, 2016 7:44 pm

The old red tubing has a nasty reputation. On my Plus 2, proximity to the exhaust heated up the metal fitting, causing the tubing to melt a little and develop a leak where it joined the fitting.

Whatever you use, put a heat-shield sleeve around it.
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:07 pm

rick i may be wrong, but i think lotus sells replacement chassis, or they used to AND you'd get basically a reissue of your old chassis --------------- I, when i got my car in 81 the chassis was as new, never bent and got a zinc coating - 36 / 4982 sandy ---- PS there's an infinite element version of OUR chassis somewheres; so get into it
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PostPost by: mbell » Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:14 pm

el-saturn wrote:rick i may be wrong, but i think lotus sells replacement chassis, or they used to AND you'd get basically a reissue of your old chassis --------------- I, when i got my car in 81 the chassis was as new, never bent and got a zinc coating - 36 / 4982 sandy ---- PS there's an infinite element version of OUR chassis somewheres; so get into it


The problem in the US is shipping as the chassis is large and has to come from the UK. I think it costs about the same as the chassis to ship it, so it is very expensive to fit a replacement chassis in the US. This means given the repair/replace point for chassis is moved towards repair where possible and safe in the US.
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PostPost by: patrics » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:24 pm

Hi Rick,
I think the nylon tube obviously works I just just don't think it is worth the risk - but I guess the run might be better controlled on a left hand drive?
Nylon is good stuff I use it for my alternator mount.

Regards
Steve
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