clutch pedal adjustments

[gentry74]

I had my s3 with a noted lotus expert and we did a full mechanical restoration. Everything came off and the chassis was strengthened, powder coated...etc

That was the starting point. She is back on the road now. I have a few things I want to sort out though... and my lotus expert gave me some advice I can't corroborate with the parts manuals. In short- the clutch pedal depresses down to the floor... and engages when its near the top of its release. This is not a very pleasant setup as-is. Lots of dead air between releasing it and it engaging. We already adjusted the clutch plate to its max safe working setting. That improved the situation a bit. My lotus guy tells me that originally, a longer mounting bolt for the clutch master cylinder would have provided a bumper behind the pedal assembly so the clutch pedal couldnt depress so far. Anyone know if this is true? and if yes... how long the bolt would have been from the factory?

Right now I have a 3" piece of aluminum tubing with a little rubber pad on it bolted to the bulkhead behind my clutch pedal. Has made a huge difference with my enjoyment of the drive... but I'd still like to get back to factory original setup if possible.

The red arrow points to the upper bolt that is holding the clutch master cylinder to the bulkead. IF that bolt was longer... it could certainly act as a stop for the clutch pedal linkage (marked with blue x). But the bolt in the parts manual is listed as same length for top and bottom. XUFB0524 x2 hex head, fine thread, 5/16, 1 1/2".

[oldelanman]

Was the clutch master cylinder replaced during the rebuild? Replacement cylinders do not generally have the correct length pushrod and the original Lotus pushrod must be reused or an adjustable one set to the correct length. If the pushrod is too long you will not have any clearance and this could cause your symptoms. You say the clutch plate has been adjusted, I presume you mean the slave cylinder pushrod has been adjusted to the correct clearance? If there is no clearance on the pushrod that could also cause engagement at the top of the pedal travel. If you do have the correct clearance at both master and slave cylinders and the clutch still engages/disengages at the top of the pedal travel that might indicate a worn out clutch disc.
I don't believe a clutch pedal stop was ever fitted from the factory at least not on the Elan although I think the Plus 2 may have one.

[Craven]

Never come across a long bolt, anyway I fit the bolt from the inside saves trying to fit washer nut in the foot well. +1 on push rod length.

[gentry74]

Was the clutch master cylinder replaced during the rebuild? .

I will have to ask to be 100% certain... but no. It was rebuilt rather than replaced. Clutch was rebuilt too. I am not so car savvy that I can easily answer your question about the adjustment he made... but it required him going under the car and turning a wrench for a few seconds. So I will assume that he adjusted the slave cylinder pushrod as you suggest.

I'll reply back again when I have a little more info. Thanks for your help so far

G

[gjz30075]

Clutch master size should be 5/8". Most Girling, or Girling types (wilwood,etc), lists the
bore size on the casting somewhere. It will be either "5/8" or decimal equivalent. Slave
should be 7/8"