Dynamator (Stealth)

[holywood3645]

I have ran the 45A Stealth Dynamator in my elan for several years. I recently removed the engine for water pump upgrade and a few other mods.and it is back in the car. Unfortunately the Dynamator is not generating any power, and I’m thinking the internal regulator has failed. I’m wondering if anyone has had similar issues with this product and information on what regulator is installed.
I’m sure it probably a pretty standard item.
Thanks in advance
James

[2cams70]

It always concerns me when I look at those alternators that look like dynamos how it's being cooled. Real alternators have lots of holes for venting and air flow. The more amps a charging device puts out the more it needs to be cooled. I have my doubts about those things that look like dynamos but aren't. They look very enclosed to me.

[billwill]

I doubt that it is a 'standard' item, there are few components in an alternator controller and so manufacturers are probably more concerned about the space to fit it in so would have a printed circuit board made to their own specification.

On the other hand this probably means that most such regulators are repairable by soldering in the relevant electronic component.

The difficulty is determining which component

Are the original manufactures contactable? If they don't have a replacement, they might at least have the circuit diagram.

I found some data on the Internet:
https://www.accuspark.co.uk/dynamatortype4.htm

[billwill]

PS: have you done anything 'silly' such as replacing the ignition light with an LED? An alternator requires current through the ignition light bulb to start the rotor magnetic field.

Since you say you removed and replaced it, the problem is more likely to be in your wiring rather than inside the Dynamator.

[holywood3645]

Problem was resolved, prior to pulling Dynamator of car I decided to recheck my installation. No problems there. Then did a point to point continuity check. Remember this was a brand new wireing harness installed when car was fully restored about 10 years ago. It’s been garaged and not a lot of miles since restoration. I found the brown/green wire had a break in it about 1/4” away from crimp (it looked absolutely fine). You would have had no physical indication that there was a problem.
Anyway all good & had my first test drive… all good so far!
Here is a picture of the offending section push on connector and wire that copper core broken.
Thanks for the responses.
James

[alan.barker]

I would suggest to run the wl cable that broke close to the heavy cable and put a 'ty-wrap' so it's supported.
Alan

[vstibbard]

Vibrations cause the alternator and generator worse to break on race engines, simple tweak is to run a a cone of silicon around the wire from plug for 1.5” acts as support and a vibration damper.
Cheers
Vaughan

[stugilmour]

Excellent detective work James!

I found a similar vibration related failure in my alternator wiring this winter. In my case the copper was still OK, but the wire insulation had totally cracked. Fortunately I had enough wire length to trim it back and repair. Although I have improved the loom sheathing and attachment to the big main positive cable, I think that silicone trick (or perhaps a dab of liquid that electrical tape stuff) is in order to prevent a recurrence.