Body-off procedure
18 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Post by: khamai » Tue Dec 14, 1999 9:21 pm
Randy,
There's two thoughts... one the RIGHT way and two the OKAY way.
?
The RIGHT way would be to place the donor chassis on a flat chassis table
and measure location of the pick-up points. Assuming the chassis is square
and the pick-up points are where they are supposed to be then "lock" the
pick-up points in place with fixtures attached to the table and bolted
through the pick-ups. This locks them down while welding.
?
The okay way is if you don't have access to a frame/chassis table. Then you
can use angle/channel iron bolted between the pick-up points at the top the
strut towers and bolt the struts together. Also bolt a diagonal between the
top of one strut and the lower pick-up on the other strut. This essentially
will lock down the top of the towers.
?
Kiyoshi
-----Original Message-----
From: Jang, Raymond (JANGR) [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 12:23 PM
To: '[email protected]'
Cc: '[email protected]'
Subject: Alignment jig for chassis welding
Hi Kiyoshi:
Thanks for your comments on welding gussets onto the OEM frame.? I did this
reinforcing on my recently wrecked Elan, and it seemed to come out OK, that
is the car handled well on the track as far as I could tell.? But I only got
two racing weekends in before it crashed, and I don't know exactly what the
chassis geometry was.? I had intended to get the alignment checked.
When you say to place the chassis in a jig before welding the front or rear
towers,? in what plane(s) and in what manner would one fasten to keep the
geometry in spec?? I know the early Elan manual details the length and
angles of the frame members.? Can you elaborate a bit on this?
Kind regards, Ray.
There's two thoughts... one the RIGHT way and two the OKAY way.
?
The RIGHT way would be to place the donor chassis on a flat chassis table
and measure location of the pick-up points. Assuming the chassis is square
and the pick-up points are where they are supposed to be then "lock" the
pick-up points in place with fixtures attached to the table and bolted
through the pick-ups. This locks them down while welding.
?
The okay way is if you don't have access to a frame/chassis table. Then you
can use angle/channel iron bolted between the pick-up points at the top the
strut towers and bolt the struts together. Also bolt a diagonal between the
top of one strut and the lower pick-up on the other strut. This essentially
will lock down the top of the towers.
?
Kiyoshi
-----Original Message-----
From: Jang, Raymond (JANGR) [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 12:23 PM
To: '[email protected]'
Cc: '[email protected]'
Subject: Alignment jig for chassis welding
Hi Kiyoshi:
Thanks for your comments on welding gussets onto the OEM frame.? I did this
reinforcing on my recently wrecked Elan, and it seemed to come out OK, that
is the car handled well on the track as far as I could tell.? But I only got
two racing weekends in before it crashed, and I don't know exactly what the
chassis geometry was.? I had intended to get the alignment checked.
When you say to place the chassis in a jig before welding the front or rear
towers,? in what plane(s) and in what manner would one fasten to keep the
geometry in spec?? I know the early Elan manual details the length and
angles of the frame members.? Can you elaborate a bit on this?
Kind regards, Ray.
-
khamai - Third Gear
- Posts: 266
- Joined: 20 Oct 2003
Post by: "Jang, Raymond (JANG » Wed Dec 15, 1999 5:16 pm
Hi Gene:
In the press of shutting down my computer last night I deleted Mike's
posting, however, I had printed it out and can outline the essence of what
he sent. This design is simple to cut and weld.
He uses cold rolled steel from Orchard Supply or Home Depot. He tack welds
into position and has an expert welder do the final work. I would add that
good welding procedure dictates liberal use of tack welds and minimizing
heat and length of welding runs to avoid structural distortion.
On the front chassis, for accessibility he cuts off the lower brace under
the engine pan and the upper brace above the bell housing. Suggests that
you replace with removable units. I did that with the lower brace on my old
chassis.
On the forward Y arms he welds 1" box tubing under the upper flange from
front to rear. Which I interpret to mean from front strut tower to center
box section (where the tranny sits). Then trim away the inboard overhang on
the upper flange. As I noted, this makes header removal/installation
easier. Similarly, a 1" angle runs along the inboard bottom of the lower
flange from strut tower to center box.
The motor mount is boxed with 18 gauge, which is also used to strengthen the
anti-roll bar mounts.
The vacuum box between the front struts is plated underneath with 3/16"
material for lifting (I also suggest a tow-hook there). Mike also has a
skid plate at 45 degrees here.
On the underside of the center backbone at the rear suspension pickup points
he welds a flat plate to triangulate on each side from back edge to forward
of the differential torque arm bolt holes. A right angle reinforcement is
welded in at the bolt hole location. I suggest that these stop shy of the
chassis attachment holes to simplify wrenching on the bolt heads, the
clearance is scant if you run the reinforcement all the way to the back
edge.
Top of the rear strut, sandwich the metacone mounting area, to resist flex
due to stiffer springs. I also suggest that you straighten and plate
reinforce the angular piece extending outboard from each side of the rear
strut. It is common to see those pieces buckled on the stock chassis.
Mike reports 10 to 20 thousandths inward flex in the rear towers just with
hand pressure. Therefore suggests a shock tower brace of your own design
(threaded 1/2" rod) to preload and prevent deflection.
The Sprint has a factory piece of flat metal that attaches via the upper
body mounting bolts which has the same effect.
Other additions I would recommend are to weld 1 1/2" by 2" 1/8" thick plates
under the bottom chassis flange at each of the body attachment points to
preclude cracking (and to give my roll-bar a more solid footing). I also
welded large washers under the four transmission mounting nuts. Some
recommend that your strengthen the upper cross member at the rear where the
differential is mounted. A flat plate across the top surface with cutouts
for the rubber mounts/bolts, perhaps with the front and rear edges bent at
right angles for rigidity. I believe the Sprint angle iron reinforcement
across the differential ears would be sufficient strengthening there
however.
To improve straight line stability Mike increases the front caster to 9
degrees total. He cuts a V in the front sheet metal sides, leaning the
front shock towers and vacuum box forward. You can fine-tune further with
the adjustable lower A-arms. More comfortable drive at the cost of harder
low speed steering.
Mike reports that 4 plumb bobs can be used at the corners to check alignment
and straightness. I would add that Kiyoshi has posted recently about how to
assure alignment before and after welding.
On the GGLC web-site, I believe there are also comments on the
reinforcements of a 26R chassis which address many of the areas described
above. The Tony Thompson reinforced chassis has many of the same gussets,
allbeit not with box tubing.
Good luck with your body-off and chassis inspection.
Regards, Ray.
In the press of shutting down my computer last night I deleted Mike's
posting, however, I had printed it out and can outline the essence of what
he sent. This design is simple to cut and weld.
He uses cold rolled steel from Orchard Supply or Home Depot. He tack welds
into position and has an expert welder do the final work. I would add that
good welding procedure dictates liberal use of tack welds and minimizing
heat and length of welding runs to avoid structural distortion.
On the front chassis, for accessibility he cuts off the lower brace under
the engine pan and the upper brace above the bell housing. Suggests that
you replace with removable units. I did that with the lower brace on my old
chassis.
On the forward Y arms he welds 1" box tubing under the upper flange from
front to rear. Which I interpret to mean from front strut tower to center
box section (where the tranny sits). Then trim away the inboard overhang on
the upper flange. As I noted, this makes header removal/installation
easier. Similarly, a 1" angle runs along the inboard bottom of the lower
flange from strut tower to center box.
The motor mount is boxed with 18 gauge, which is also used to strengthen the
anti-roll bar mounts.
The vacuum box between the front struts is plated underneath with 3/16"
material for lifting (I also suggest a tow-hook there). Mike also has a
skid plate at 45 degrees here.
On the underside of the center backbone at the rear suspension pickup points
he welds a flat plate to triangulate on each side from back edge to forward
of the differential torque arm bolt holes. A right angle reinforcement is
welded in at the bolt hole location. I suggest that these stop shy of the
chassis attachment holes to simplify wrenching on the bolt heads, the
clearance is scant if you run the reinforcement all the way to the back
edge.
Top of the rear strut, sandwich the metacone mounting area, to resist flex
due to stiffer springs. I also suggest that you straighten and plate
reinforce the angular piece extending outboard from each side of the rear
strut. It is common to see those pieces buckled on the stock chassis.
Mike reports 10 to 20 thousandths inward flex in the rear towers just with
hand pressure. Therefore suggests a shock tower brace of your own design
(threaded 1/2" rod) to preload and prevent deflection.
The Sprint has a factory piece of flat metal that attaches via the upper
body mounting bolts which has the same effect.
Other additions I would recommend are to weld 1 1/2" by 2" 1/8" thick plates
under the bottom chassis flange at each of the body attachment points to
preclude cracking (and to give my roll-bar a more solid footing). I also
welded large washers under the four transmission mounting nuts. Some
recommend that your strengthen the upper cross member at the rear where the
differential is mounted. A flat plate across the top surface with cutouts
for the rubber mounts/bolts, perhaps with the front and rear edges bent at
right angles for rigidity. I believe the Sprint angle iron reinforcement
across the differential ears would be sufficient strengthening there
however.
To improve straight line stability Mike increases the front caster to 9
degrees total. He cuts a V in the front sheet metal sides, leaning the
front shock towers and vacuum box forward. You can fine-tune further with
the adjustable lower A-arms. More comfortable drive at the cost of harder
low speed steering.
Mike reports that 4 plumb bobs can be used at the corners to check alignment
and straightness. I would add that Kiyoshi has posted recently about how to
assure alignment before and after welding.
On the GGLC web-site, I believe there are also comments on the
reinforcements of a 26R chassis which address many of the areas described
above. The Tony Thompson reinforced chassis has many of the same gussets,
allbeit not with box tubing.
Good luck with your body-off and chassis inspection.
Regards, Ray.
- "Jang, Raymond (JANG
Post by: Elan67Coupe » Sun Jan 09, 2000 5:25 am
Listers:
This is a follow-up message to a 6 Dec. 1999 posting by Raymond Jang, where
he was kind enough to provide a list of steps that he used to remove the
body from a '72 Sprint.
I have a 1967 yellow FHC that has been languishing in my garage for almost
15 years. I now have the time and money to get it back on the road, so for
me, the year 2000 is the year of the LOTUS!
Since every mechanical system on my car needs rebuilding, I decided the
first step was to remove the body to facilitate the rebuilding process. I
used Raymond's step by step list as a guide, and successfully removed the
body. While removing the body, I also made additional notes that might be
useful to those completing this task in the future. Below you will find
Raymond's original list of steps, (Steps 1 through 25), and my additional
notes as Steps 26 through 29.
BODY OFF PROCEDURE:
1. Place car on jack stands to allow access to underside
2. Drain radiator, engine, transmission. Remove bonnet
3. Disconnect hoses, remove radiator
4. Disconnect water temp sensor and heater control valve on head
5. Unfasten and remove tailpipe/muffler. Disconnect speedo cable, parking
brake cable
6. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder, remove slave cylinder
7. Disconnect battery cable, ignition switch wire from starter, remove
starter
8. Loosen but leave in place transmission mount
9. Disconnect brake lines from tandem master cylinder
10. Remove exhaust manifold nuts
11. Remove airbox. Remove carburetors
12. Disconnect oil pressure line from block
13. Disconnect primary ignition and high tension wires to distributor from
coil
14. Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump
15. Remove transmission shift lever, plug tranny opening with wadded paper
towel
16. Depending upon lift possible with your engine hoist, may want to put car
on
the floor now.
17. Loosen engine mount bolts on the chassis
18. Connect engine hoist and sling Remove engine mount bolts
19. Disconnect transmission mount cross member
20. Hoist/maneuver engine to gain clearance to remove exhaust manifold/down
pipe, remove same. Remove engine and tranny from engine bay
21. Remove horns mounted on front body/chassis through bolts
22. Remove 12 UNC body chassis bolts from underneath
23. Behind dash at the tunnel top, remove two UNF bolts on each side
24. Behind carpet panel below the convertible top storage area remove the
two
UNF body/rear strut bolts. Nearby on the outboard sides remove the bolts and
clevis holding the seat belt at shoulder height
25. To lighten the body for lift off: Remove fuel tank, Remove seats (could
also remove doors, we didn't).
26. Remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft coupling located near the
front cross member. Under the instrument panel loosen the two U bolts
securing the steering shaft. Pull the steering wheel back about 1 inch to
disengage the splined steering shaft from the coupling.
27. In the back of the boot (trunk), remove the black ground wire connected
to the differential rubber mount.
28. Remove the two seat belt inboard ring bolts that screw into the
transmission tunnel portion of the frame.
29. Remove the large rubber hole plug on the right side of the transmission
tunnel, used to access the drive shaft u-joint.
30. With four strong backs or an engine hoist or wooden blocks, jack and
saw-horses, remove the body from the chassis.
Bill Kanne
67 Elan FHC
36/6556
This is a follow-up message to a 6 Dec. 1999 posting by Raymond Jang, where
he was kind enough to provide a list of steps that he used to remove the
body from a '72 Sprint.
I have a 1967 yellow FHC that has been languishing in my garage for almost
15 years. I now have the time and money to get it back on the road, so for
me, the year 2000 is the year of the LOTUS!
Since every mechanical system on my car needs rebuilding, I decided the
first step was to remove the body to facilitate the rebuilding process. I
used Raymond's step by step list as a guide, and successfully removed the
body. While removing the body, I also made additional notes that might be
useful to those completing this task in the future. Below you will find
Raymond's original list of steps, (Steps 1 through 25), and my additional
notes as Steps 26 through 29.
BODY OFF PROCEDURE:
1. Place car on jack stands to allow access to underside
2. Drain radiator, engine, transmission. Remove bonnet
3. Disconnect hoses, remove radiator
4. Disconnect water temp sensor and heater control valve on head
5. Unfasten and remove tailpipe/muffler. Disconnect speedo cable, parking
brake cable
6. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder, remove slave cylinder
7. Disconnect battery cable, ignition switch wire from starter, remove
starter
8. Loosen but leave in place transmission mount
9. Disconnect brake lines from tandem master cylinder
10. Remove exhaust manifold nuts
11. Remove airbox. Remove carburetors
12. Disconnect oil pressure line from block
13. Disconnect primary ignition and high tension wires to distributor from
coil
14. Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump
15. Remove transmission shift lever, plug tranny opening with wadded paper
towel
16. Depending upon lift possible with your engine hoist, may want to put car
on
the floor now.
17. Loosen engine mount bolts on the chassis
18. Connect engine hoist and sling Remove engine mount bolts
19. Disconnect transmission mount cross member
20. Hoist/maneuver engine to gain clearance to remove exhaust manifold/down
pipe, remove same. Remove engine and tranny from engine bay
21. Remove horns mounted on front body/chassis through bolts
22. Remove 12 UNC body chassis bolts from underneath
23. Behind dash at the tunnel top, remove two UNF bolts on each side
24. Behind carpet panel below the convertible top storage area remove the
two
UNF body/rear strut bolts. Nearby on the outboard sides remove the bolts and
clevis holding the seat belt at shoulder height
25. To lighten the body for lift off: Remove fuel tank, Remove seats (could
also remove doors, we didn't).
26. Remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft coupling located near the
front cross member. Under the instrument panel loosen the two U bolts
securing the steering shaft. Pull the steering wheel back about 1 inch to
disengage the splined steering shaft from the coupling.
27. In the back of the boot (trunk), remove the black ground wire connected
to the differential rubber mount.
28. Remove the two seat belt inboard ring bolts that screw into the
transmission tunnel portion of the frame.
29. Remove the large rubber hole plug on the right side of the transmission
tunnel, used to access the drive shaft u-joint.
30. With four strong backs or an engine hoist or wooden blocks, jack and
saw-horses, remove the body from the chassis.
Bill Kanne
67 Elan FHC
36/6556
- Elan67Coupe
- First Gear
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 07 Jan 2008
18 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests
Site map
SitemapIndex
RSS Feed