leave it and pull the engine this winter and check everything out.
Unfortunatley when I bought the car 4 years ago it was supposed to
have had a complete rebuild by a Lotus dealer no less (who I bought
the car from). However, I have had nothing but troubles over the
years starting with just 1 week after I bought it. I have found many
things that were supposedly renewed that were not and the rebuild is
of very questionable quality. I guess buyer beware is the lesson here.
Time to tear it down and do it right.
Probably will be back here for advice in the future. Thanks to all
the responded and helped--I know it is difficult over the net to diagnose.
--- In ***@***.***, "Tony Vaccaro" <[email protected]> wrote:
I did have a twin cam where the rod bolts loosened and the rod cap
to come loose.
The piston top started to tap the valves ever so lightly and it
I think at this point you may have to pull the engine to investigate
further. I was lucky in that I did pull mine and the only thing I had to
replace was the rod. Any longer and I would have been replacing a
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep
Thanks guys for the thoughts but I am sure that it is not related to
just rough idle as the sound is much more sinister than just that. It
sounds as if there is a big hammer being hit on the block. Also,
since this occurred as I was driving home one night--all of a sudden
this vibration started while stuck in traffic. Rough running is one
thing, but this is certainly more than that.
Again, the strange thing is it seems to clear at speed. Not sure if
this is still the case because I have not driven it since as the
couple of times I started it, the sound and vibration was such that I
didn't dare to keep it running.
Could it be something internal with the engine--connecting rod, piston
etc. Or would problems with those all be more obvious and serious?
What about the flywheel--so others think that should be looked into?
Thanks again for all the thoughts.
--- In ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com,
"Stan Aarhus" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close
> source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the
> factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never
> way or the other. It now seems to be the case.
> <snip>"I tried to start it
> > and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just
> > want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong."
> I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing,
> balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a
> test been done?
> My previous response:
> "Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is
> the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned.
> If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough)
> movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate of
> engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action
> engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no
> I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is
> Cheers to all
- Second Gear
- Posts: 150
- Joined: 23 May 2004
the list aware of who scammed you is the dishonest seller's ability to
do the same to the next guy. Lists like this are great ways to ensure
that your bad experience isn't repeated by some other poor schmuck --
and to provide pressure on the bad guys to shape up.
Invisible internal issues aside, a competent dealer knows exactly what
they are selling. They also know it's fraud to misrepresent the engine
as rebuilt if they don't have documented evidence that specific work was
performed by a competent (if not licensed) mechanic. The law may not
make them liable for such a misrepresentation in all places, but the
moral facts are the same.
You or I, when selling our machines, might represent that we rebuilt the
engine. When asked where the receipts are, we're obliged to produce
them or a good story as to why they don't exist. If we did the work
ourselves, we should at least be able to document purchsing the related
parts and machine work. If all we did was renew rings and bearings and
hope for the best, our documents will reflect that, and the buyer knows
more or less what he's getting. If we have no documents, we're either
liars or idiots, and it's not wise to buy a used car from either one.
Disregard this if you didn't give the dealer an opportunity to make it
-- Doug Nicholls, 54/1822 Ma~
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 585
- Joined: 23 Jan 2006
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