Lotus Elan

Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat idle problem

PostPost by: "Stan Aarhus" » Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:24 pm

Roger,

I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close to the
source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the contributing
factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never addressed, one
way or the other. It now seems to be the case.

<snip>"I tried to start it
and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did not
want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong." </snip>

I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing, mixture
balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a compression
test been done?

My previous response:

"Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is contacting
the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned. Rationale:
If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough) and that
movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate of
engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action of the
engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no noise."

I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is difficult, at
best.

Cheers to all

Stan
"Stan Aarhus"
 

PostPost by: davidwinegar » Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:50 pm

Thanks guys for the thoughts but I am sure that it is not related to
just rough idle as the sound is much more sinister than just that. It
sounds as if there is a big hammer being hit on the block. Also,
since this occurred as I was driving home one night--all of a sudden
this vibration started while stuck in traffic. Rough running is one
thing, but this is certainly more than that.

Again, the strange thing is it seems to clear at speed. Not sure if
this is still the case because I have not driven it since as the
couple of times I started it, the sound and vibration was such that I
didn't dare to keep it running.

Could it be something internal with the engine--connecting rod, piston
etc. Or would problems with those all be more obvious and serious?
What about the flywheel--so others think that should be looked into?

Thanks again for all the thoughts.

David




--- In ***@***.***, "Stan Aarhus" <[email protected]> wrote:
Roger,

I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close
to the

source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the
contributing

factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never
addressed, one

way or the other. It now seems to be the case.

<snip>"I tried to start it
> and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did not
> want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong."
</snip>


I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing, mixture
balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a
compression

test been done?

My previous response:

"Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is
contacting

the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned.
Rationale:

If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough)
and that

movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate of
engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action of the
engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no
noise."


I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is
difficult, at

best.

Cheers to all

Stan

davidwinegar
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 150
Joined: 23 May 2004

PostPost by: tvacc » Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:59 pm

I did have a twin cam where the rod bolts loosened and the rod cap started
to come loose.

The piston top started to tap the valves ever so lightly and it produced a
"hollow" rap.



I think at this point you may have to pull the engine to investigate
further. I was lucky in that I did pull mine and the only thing I had to
replace was the rod. Any longer and I would have been replacing a block.



Tony Vaccaro



_____

From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.*** Behalf
Of david_c_w
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:46 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat idle
problem



Thanks guys for the thoughts but I am sure that it is not related to
just rough idle as the sound is much more sinister than just that. It
sounds as if there is a big hammer being hit on the block. Also,
since this occurred as I was driving home one night--all of a sudden
this vibration started while stuck in traffic. Rough running is one
thing, but this is certainly more than that.

Again, the strange thing is it seems to clear at speed. Not sure if
this is still the case because I have not driven it since as the
couple of times I started it, the sound and vibration was such that I
didn't dare to keep it running.

Could it be something internal with the engine--connecting rod, piston
etc. Or would problems with those all be more obvious and serious?
What about the flywheel--so others think that should be looked into?

Thanks again for all the thoughts.

David

--- In ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com,
"Stan Aarhus" <[email protected]> wrote:
Roger,

I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close
to the

source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the
contributing

factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never
addressed, one

way or the other. It now seems to be the case.

<snip>"I tried to start it
> and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did not
> want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong."
</snip>


I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing, mixture
balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a
compression

test been done?

My previous response:

"Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is
contacting

the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned.
Rationale:

If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough)
and that

movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate of
engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action of the
engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no
noise."


I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is
difficult, at

best.

Cheers to all

Stan

Tony Vaccaro
http://www.lotusowners.com
LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York)
Drive Fast Take Chances
71 Spyder Elan, ElanGTS, 93 Caterham, 05 Elise,
99 Elise190, 91 M100 Elan, 74 Europa, 72 Europa JPS #15, 68 Elan Coupe RHD
User avatar
tvacc
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1174
Joined: 24 Dec 2003
Location: Buffalo NY

PostPost by: "Roger Sieling" » Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:00 pm

David,

Do you have tubular headers or cast iron manifold? I once had #4 header
flange become loose (nuts were still in place, just had vibrated loose)
and the noise was such I at first considered I might have a rod coming
loose. I doubt you could get the same effect w/ a cast iron manifold.

Could be something internal. It is hard to make diagnosis over the
internet, especially when only given part of the facts. I don't believe
you've ever mentioned before the noise starting as you sat in traffic.

Roger

>> ***@***.*** 9/12/2006 10:46 AM >>>
Thanks guys for the thoughts but I am sure that it is not related to

just rough idle as the sound is much more sinister than just that. It
sounds as if there is a big hammer being hit on the block. Also,
since this occurred as I was driving home one night--all of a sudden
this vibration started while stuck in traffic. Rough running is one
thing, but this is certainly more than that.

Again, the strange thing is it seems to clear at speed. Not sure if
this is still the case because I have not driven it since as the
couple of times I started it, the sound and vibration was such that I
didn't dare to keep it running.

Could it be something internal with the engine--connecting rod, piston
etc. Or would problems with those all be more obvious and serious?
What about the flywheel--so others think that should be looked into?

Thanks again for all the thoughts.

David




--- In ***@***.***, "Stan Aarhus" <[email protected]> wrote:
Roger,

I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close
to the

source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the
contributing

factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never
addressed, one

way or the other. It now seems to be the case.

<snip>"I tried to start it
> and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did
not

> want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong."
</snip>


I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing,
mixture

balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a
compression

test been done?

My previous response:

"Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is
contacting

the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned.
Rationale:

If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough)
and that

movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate
of

engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action of
the

engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no
noise."


I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is
difficult, at

best.

Cheers to all

Stan

"Roger Sieling"
 

PostPost by: "Stan Aarhus" » Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:19 pm

Quite a difference between "thumping" and "big hammer hit on the block".
This changes things considerably and points to a serious internal problem,
such as a bad main or rod bearing or, worst case, a cracked or broken crank.

If the knock is loudest under load and lessens when you let up its probably
a bad main bearing. If it knocks all the time but increases when you let
off, it could be a bad rod bearing. If this is the case, while idling, try
successivly removing the spark plug leads listening for a change in the
intensity or sound of the knock. If this produces a response, you have
found the suspect cylinder. Good luck

Stan
"Stan Aarhus"
 

PostPost by: lotuselan2 » Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:03 pm

If it is knocking that bad I wouldn't be testing I would be tearing it down
before a projectile comes through the block. Ouch$$



Ken

'69 Lotus Elan +2 with BDR

_____

From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.*** Behalf
Of Stan Aarhus
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 11:09 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat
idle problem



Quite a difference between "thumping" and "big hammer hit on the block".
This changes things considerably and points to a serious internal problem,
such as a bad main or rod bearing or, worst case, a cracked or broken crank.

If the knock is loudest under load and lessens when you let up its probably
a bad main bearing. If it knocks all the time but increases when you let
off, it could be a bad rod bearing. If this is the case, while idling, try
successivly removing the spark plug leads listening for a change in the
intensity or sound of the knock. If this produces a response, you have
found the suspect cylinder. Good luck

Stan
'69 Lotus Elan +2 with Cosworth BDR
'84 Ferrari 400i
'94 Subaru SVX
'04 Audi allroad
lotuselan2
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 377
Joined: 19 Oct 2005
Location: Shamong, NJ

PostPost by: lotuselanman » Tue Sep 12, 2006 9:25 pm

LOOSE FLYWHEEL !!
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Sieling
To: ***@***.*** ; ***@***.***
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 11:37 PM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat idle problem


David,

I suppose we're running out of possibilities. What I'm beginning to
wonder is that we've been looking for something banging into some other
object, and that does have to happen to get the noise, but I'm starting
to wonder if maybe your engine has gone onto 3 cylinders at idle and the
noise is a result of the engine moving excessively (shaking) from uneven
idle.

So, have you been playing w/ the carbies or maybe broken a spark plug
lead while getting at the engine mount underneath the carbs. Or, did you
remove the carbs to make it easier to get at the mount and now have an
air leak at the O-ring seals to the manifold. Also, if you removed the
carbs, the carbs need to be resyncronized, as the connector between the
two throttle shafts will never go back the exact same way. If that is
the case, it could be that one carb is completely closed at idle and you
are only running on 2 cylinders at idle. Any of those things will cause
rough idle, that might seem to clear at higher engine speeds.

Roger

>>> ***@***.*** 9/12/2006 8:16 AM >>>
I just checked the gear box mount and it seems to be ok--I also don't
see any play in the drive shaft--it is secure. I tried to start it
and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did not
want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong. Anyway
to check the flywheel without pulling the engine out?

David

--- In ***@***.***, "les mellor" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Loose flywheel.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: david_c_w
> To: ***@***.***
> Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 1:34 PM
> Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibration at
idle problem
>
>
> Hi Tony,
>
> Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify the situation with my car is
> that the ibration is at its worst when it is in neutral and at
idle.
> At speed it seems to be about normal. So if I understand
correctly,
> this does not point to the prop shaft as the car would rightly need
to
> be moving for this to be a problem.
>
> I guess I am back to looking at the mounts.
>
> David
>
> --- In ***@***.***, "Tony Vaccaro" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > The only way the drive shaft vibration would not be felt is if
the
> car is
> > not moving...and in neutral. Is is being felt when the car is
NOT
> moving?
> >
> >
> >
> > I had a very deep vibration on my Elan..tried everything. Got to
the
> point
> > where I could remove the prop shaft in under 20 minutes. Had it
> balanced
> > many times.but it was only when I took it to a new digital
> balancer..that it
> > got fixed. It was out of balance.
> >
> >
> >
> > Tony Vaccaro
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: ***@***.***
[mailto:***@***.***
> On Behalf
> > Of david_c_w
> > Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:33 PM
> > To: ***@***.***
> > Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibration at
idle
> problem
> >
> >
> >
> > HI Rod,
> >
> > Just wonderng would the u-joint be vibrating even when not in
gear?
> >
> > Also, how the heck do I get at it to check it?
> >
> > Still haven't yet had a chance to check the other mounts so
those are
> > also possibilities.
> >
> > David
> >
> > --- In ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com>
> ps.com, Rod
> > Bean <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > David,
> > >
> > > Try the u-joint in the drive shaft. It's not easy to remove if
that's
> > > the problem but I suspect it might be.
> > >
> > > Rod Bean
> > > S1 & S2 Elans
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.3/445 - Release Date:
11/09/2006
>
>
>
>
lotuselanman
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 170
Joined: 20 Jul 2004

PostPost by: lotuselanman » Tue Sep 12, 2006 9:26 pm

LOOSE FLYWHEEL !!



----- Original Message -----
From: david_c_w
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 12:46 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat idle problem


Thanks guys for the thoughts but I am sure that it is not related to
just rough idle as the sound is much more sinister than just that. It
sounds as if there is a big hammer being hit on the block. Also,
since this occurred as I was driving home one night--all of a sudden
this vibration started while stuck in traffic. Rough running is one
thing, but this is certainly more than that.

Again, the strange thing is it seems to clear at speed. Not sure if
this is still the case because I have not driven it since as the
couple of times I started it, the sound and vibration was such that I
didn't dare to keep it running.

Could it be something internal with the engine--connecting rod, piston
etc. Or would problems with those all be more obvious and serious?
What about the flywheel--so others think that should be looked into?

Thanks again for all the thoughts.

David

--- In ***@***.***, "Stan Aarhus" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Roger,
>
> I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close
to the
> source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the
contributing
> factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never
addressed, one
> way or the other. It now seems to be the case.
>
> <snip>"I tried to start it
> > and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did not
> > want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong."
</snip>
>
> I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing, mixture
> balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a
compression
> test been done?
>
> My previous response:
>
> "Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is
contacting
> the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned.
Rationale:
> If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough)
and that
> movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate of
> engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action of the
> engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no
noise."
>
> I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is
difficult, at
> best.
>
> Cheers to all
>
> Stan
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.3/445 - Release Date: 11/09/2006
lotuselanman
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 170
Joined: 20 Jul 2004

PostPost by: lotuselanman » Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:52 am

Nope.




----- Original Message -----
From: Tebbutt, Bill
To: '***@***.***'
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:28 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat idle problem


Les,

Have you fallen asleep on the "send" key??

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.*** Behalf
Of les mellor
Sent: 2006/09/12 17:10
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat
idle problem

LOOSE FLYWHEEL !!

----- Original Message -----
From: david_c_w
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 12:46 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat
idle problem

Thanks guys for the thoughts but I am sure that it is not related to
just rough idle as the sound is much more sinister than just that. It
sounds as if there is a big hammer being hit on the block. Also,
since this occurred as I was driving home one night--all of a sudden
this vibration started while stuck in traffic. Rough running is one
thing, but this is certainly more than that.

Again, the strange thing is it seems to clear at speed. Not sure if
this is still the case because I have not driven it since as the
couple of times I started it, the sound and vibration was such that I
didn't dare to keep it running.

Could it be something internal with the engine--connecting rod, piston
etc. Or would problems with those all be more obvious and serious?
What about the flywheel--so others think that should be looked into?

Thanks again for all the thoughts.

David

--- In ***@***.***, "Stan Aarhus" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Roger,
>
> I still remain satisfied that the theory I posted earlier is close
to the
> source. I referred to "lumpiness" or rough idling, being the
contributing
> factor. Whether or not this roughness was present was never
addressed, one
> way or the other. It now seems to be the case.
>
> <snip>"I tried to start it
> > and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did not
> > want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong."
</snip>
>
> I agree that the problem probably has to do with carb syncing, mixture
> balancing, vacuum leaks or even crossed sparkplug leads. Has a
compression
> test been done?
>
> My previous response:
>
> "Here's a theory to explore. Assumption: Your exhaust system is
contacting
> the body/chassis or your exhaust hanger is damaged/mis-aligned.
Rationale:
> If this is so, the engine is idling (ticking over) lumpily (rough)
and that
> movement is causing the exhaust system to bump the body at the rate of
> engine "lumpiness". But, while motoring along, the torque action of the
> engine moves the exhaust away from its contact point and thus, no
noise."
>
> I think we're getting close, but internet troubleshooting is
difficult, at
> best.
>
> Cheers to all
>
> Stan
>

----------------------------------------------------------
--

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.3/445 - Release Date: 11/09/2006
lotuselanman
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 170
Joined: 20 Jul 2004

PostPost by: mackmotorsport at aol.com » Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:30 am

You can get some idea of what's going on inside your motor by draining the
oil,letting it drip for a while and examining what came out I would have to
think that a noise so big would leave some visible metal in the drainings from the
sump.
Bill Mack
mackmotorsport at aol.com
 

PostPost by: tvacc » Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:38 pm

Been a long time since I pulled a twin cam.and I get confused with my Seven
with the Crossflow..



I seem to remember that you could not take off the bottom of the sheet metal
cover on a stock twin cam UNLESS you had cut the shield at some previous
time when you had the engine out.

Now..I know it was cut on my Crossflow..hence I cannot remember if it also
was on the twin cam.. but I don't think so..



Tony Vaccaro



_____

From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.*** Behalf
Of Roger Sieling
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 2:53 PM
To: ***@***.***; ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibrationat idle
problem



David,

You know you can take the sheet metal cover off the bottom of the
bellhousing (4 x 1/4-20 screws) to have access to the flywheel. I would
tend to think you would get a lot of noise when the starter was cranking
the engine over if the f'wheel were loose.

All the talk about bolt strengths made me remember a poor application
for Gr8 hardware and that is to attach the flywheel to the crankshaft.
I've seen several engines with Gr8 and "Supertanium" brand cap screws
had failed in this application. It pretty well wrecks an aluminum
flywheel in doing so. Good luck.

Roger

>> ***@***.***. <mailto:david_c_w%40yahoo.com> com 9/13/2006 2:15 PM
>>
Flywheel coming loose certainly may be the case as it would make

sense. I will let you all know what I find when I pull the engine.
I'm just trying to track down a portable engine lift and find a time
to do it.

Thanks again to all who offered their thoughts and wish me luck.

David

--- In ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com, "les
mellor" <[email protected]> wrote:
LOOSE FLYWHEEL !!
----- Original Message -----
From: david_c_w
To: ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:16 PM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Update... Re: Stil no luck--- Deep
vibration at idle problem



I just checked the gear box mount and it seems to be ok--I also
don't

see any play in the drive shaft--it is secure. I tried to start it
and it turns over but the thumping sound is so bad that I just did
not

want to keep it running as there is certainly something wrong.
Anyway

to check the flywheel without pulling the engine out?

David

--- In ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com,
"les mellor" <[email protected]>

wrote:
>
> Loose flywheel.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: david_c_w
> To: ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 1:34 PM
> Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibration at
idle problem
>
>
> Hi Tony,
>
> Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify the situation with my car
is

> that the ibration is at its worst when it is in neutral and at
idle.

> At speed it seems to be about normal. So if I understand
correctly,

> this does not point to the prop shaft as the car would rightly
need to

> be moving for this to be a problem.
>
> I guess I am back to looking at the mounts.
>
> David
>
> --- In ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com,
"Tony Vaccaro" <[email protected]> wrote:

> >
> > The only way the drive shaft vibration would not be felt is if
the

> car is
> > not moving...and in neutral. Is is being felt when the car is
NOT

> moving?
> >
> >
> >
> > I had a very deep vibration on my Elan..tried everything. Got
to the

> point
> > where I could remove the prop shaft in under 20 minutes. Had
it

> balanced
> > many times.but it was only when I took it to a new digital
> balancer..that it
> > got fixed. It was out of balance.
> >
> >
> >
> > Tony Vaccaro
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com]

> On Behalf
> > Of david_c_w
> > Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:33 PM
> > To: ***@***.*** <mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
> > Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: Stil no luck--- Deep vibration at
idle

> problem
> >
> >
> >
> > HI Rod,
> >
> > Just wonderng would the u-joint be vibrating even when not in
gear?

> >
> > Also, how the heck do I get at it to check it?
> >
> > Still haven't yet had a chance to check the other mounts so
those are
> > also possibilities.
> >
> > David
> >
> > --- In ***@***.***
<mailto:lotuselan%40yahoogroups.com>

> ps.com, Rod
> > Bean <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > David,
> > >
> > > Try the u-joint in the drive shaft. It's not easy to remove
if

that's
> > > the problem but I suspect it might be.
> > >
> > > Rod Bean
> > > S1 & S2 Elans
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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http://www.LotusEla <> n.net
Tony Vaccaro
http://www.lotusowners.com
LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York)
Drive Fast Take Chances
71 Spyder Elan, ElanGTS, 93 Caterham, 05 Elise,
99 Elise190, 91 M100 Elan, 74 Europa, 72 Europa JPS #15, 68 Elan Coupe RHD
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PostPost by: denicholls2 » Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:44 pm

Bill wrote:

You can get some idea of what's going on inside your motor by draining
the
oil,letting it drip for a while and examining what came out I would have
to
think that a noise so big would leave some visible metal in the
drainings from the
sump.
------------
Good suggestion, won't tell you about a loose flywheel.

I rather doubt it would be crank-related unless thrust bearing (good
suggestion there). I doubt a bad main or rod bearing or loose cap or
broken crank would clear up at higher RPM. Rod issues are so regular
and so clearly related to changes in crank speed that you'd have to be
pretty daft not to recognize them as such, and it doesn't take much
bearing failure to send oil pressure to the cellar. No report of that,
right?

-- Doug Nicholls, 54/1822 Ma~
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PostPost by: "Elton E. (Tony) Cla » Wed Sep 13, 2006 11:46 pm

*Pulling the starter will allow some access to the flywheel . . *
"Elton E. (Tony) Cla
 

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