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clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 6:14 pm
by denicholls2
Hi Ken,

No experience with the Elan, but mechanically something is keeping the
pressure plate from full engagement, hence your clutch slippage. The
noise could be a broken pressure plate finger, or more evil yet a
flywheel bolt come adrift, which could be quite nasty.

Most pressure plates are way too simple to allow for moving bits when
they fail, and I'm not familiar with the Elan pressure plate's
particulars, but if a finger breaks off (how could that happen!) it does
have to wind up somewhere.

The noise is an indication of something rattling around in there and
potentially acting as a machine tool on your flywheel face, meaning
immediate attention required. Sorry if it cuts your driving season
short. :-(

-- Doug Nicholls, 54/1822 Ma~

clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:24 pm
by "Eric Ellis"
Hello, it sounds like a finger spring on the pressure plate to me too. I had
one go and the pedal was sort of soft, car was drivable but the clutch
slipped. I had overheated the clutch drag racing I suppose. Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "kandmpc" <***@***.***>
To: <***@***.***>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] clutch noise and slipping


Hello everyone, I had begun to think about this winters project but I
think it has just picked itself today. I restored my +2 4 years and
approx 5000 miles ago, including a new clutch/thrust bearing. Things
have gone smoothly until today when the clutch suddenly began slipping
under acceleration accompanied by a tapping noise in time with engine
speed coming from the clutch when the pedal is about half way down,
the noise stops when fully depressed or released. It may be
imagination but the pedal also seemed to have a different 'feel'. At
rest the release arm is fully released with the correct clearance. I
can't see any alternative to pulling things apart but wondered if
anyone has any ideas/suggestions/experience of this.

Regards

Ken

Morpeth
Northumberland.










clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 6:04 pm
by "kandmpc"
Thanks for the help and advice. Clutch removal I'm afraid. From
previous posts I think removal of the engine and gearbox as one unit
is the favoured method - unless someone has devised a simple method
for removing the gearbox from a +2 spyder chassis.

Regards

Ken

clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:31 pm
by "Roger Sieling"
Ken,

I'll agreee w/ you that it is clutch replacement time but no way would I consider pulling the engine/ gearbox together. Simply support the gearbox under the bellhousing and pull just the engine. It will come out almost straight up where the two units together require you to almost stand them on end to get them out and you'll bugger up the nose of your car in the process.

Roger

>> ***@***.*** >>>
Thanks for the help and advice. Clutch removal I'm afraid. From

previous posts I think removal of the engine and gearbox as one unit
is the favoured method - unless someone has devised a simple method
for removing the gearbox from a +2 spyder chassis.

Regards

Ken

clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:47 am
by gjz30075
--- In ***@***.***, "Roger Sieling" <[email protected]> wrote:
Ken,

I'll agreee w/ you that it is clutch replacement time but no way
would I consider pulling the engine/ gearbox together. Simply support

the gearbox under the bellhousing and pull just the engine.

Ken,
I agree with Roger. The gearbox is one more thing you have to drain,
it's difficult to get the driveshaft back in and it most likely picked
up crud while laying in the chassis and if not wiped clean, that crud
can ruin the tailshaft seal. Wrestling with the alignment of the input
shaft when putting the engine back in is not that bad.

Greg Z
'72 Sprint

clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 9:26 pm
by "kandmpc"
Thanks Roger and Greg for the engine removal advice. I was going to
remove the engine and gearbox, mainly because of the ease of aligning
then on the bench but you have just about convinced me to remove only
the engine. It looks like the method is to remove the top bellhousing
bolts, lift the engine/gearbox until the sump will clear the spyder
chassis crossmember/vacuum chamber, secure the gearbox then remove the
remaining bellhousing bolts and pull the engine. Have I missed
anything.

Ken

clutch noise and slipping

PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:16 am
by "Roger Sieling"
There is a dust cover on the bottom, front of the bellhousing; 4 x 1/4" bolts(7/16 hex heads). Remove the starter while you're down there. Without checking, I believe there are only 6 x 3/8 bellhousing bolts. The top part of the dust shield is always a nuisence, but it has to be there. Don't forget the fuel pump line and all the ignition and dynamo/ alternator wires. I wrap a nylon strap around under the intake manifold on the right and the thermostat housing on the left. I've done it that way ever since seeing the cover of Vizard's "Tuning Twin Cams". They were doing it that way but using a monstrous 1" diameter rope.

I use my floor jack (over there called a trolley jack) under the gearbox. When it goes back in, you'll want to raise and lower the jack to get the angle between engine and box lined up. You'll also need a dummy clutch shaft to center the clutch, no matter whether you assemble the engine and box on the bench or in the car. The dummy shaft doesn't have to have splines on it. If you have a lathe available, you can make a dummy shaft to the ID of the pilot bearing and the minor diameter of the splines.

Roger

>> ***@***.*** >>>
Thanks Roger and Greg for the engine removal advice. I was going to

remove the engine and gearbox, mainly because of the ease of aligning
then on the bench but you have just about convinced me to remove only
the engine. It looks like the method is to remove the top bellhousing
bolts, lift the engine/gearbox until the sump will clear the spyder
chassis crossmember/vacuum chamber, secure the gearbox then remove the
remaining bellhousing bolts and pull the engine. Have I missed
anything.

Ken