Lotus Elan

Elan +2 for racing?

PostPost by: roadterror » Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:44 pm

Hi guys,

Been thinking of campaigning an Elan + 2 for next years' race season. What are the pros and cons of racing an Elan +2 as opposed to a Sprint or Europa?

What sort of mods should I look at at getting it competitive?
(lighter panels, adjustable under-carriage, all steel engine? Costs involved to build from an original chassis and shell? Where are the weak points of the original chassis?)
Link to racing scene in Singapore/ Malaysia(no track in Singapore).

http://www.davidworksgarage.com/racediary.htm

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers,
Brian



Best Regards,
Brian Chan
David Works Garage
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#01-2018, 2026 & 2030
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Off: 065 64451739
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http://www.davidworksgarage.com/
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:00 am

Brian
Whats best depends on the regulations yuo race under and the type of
tracks you race on.

If you can race a twin cam europa or a cross flow modified S2 Europa
then this will be quickest in most circumstances except perhaps very
tight tracks.

If the race tracks are tight and regulations also tight as to things
such as tyre widths and body and engine mods then an Elan will be best.
Otherwise you really need to be able to widen an Elans track width to
keep it competitive with a Europa of similar weight and engine power in
faster corners.

If tracks are wide open and you can carry speed through corners and you
can lighten the car in a big way then a plus 2 can be good as you can
get a fair amount of weight out by removing trim. A plus 2's handling
and speed is significantly better than a standard width Elans in fast
sweeping corners. Even with extreme lightening its always going to be
about 100kg more than a similarly prepared Elan or Europa so will
suffer in stop go style corners.

Any of them need money spent on engines and drive trains to be
competitive and reliable and on suspensions to get the rights springs,
shockers, roll bars, bushes etc.

If your running slicks and very stiff suspensions to get them to work
then the chassis will need soome reinforcing if you want a long trouble
free life. If you search the forums for photos or talk to Tony Thompson
in the UK you will see the sorts of mods required.

regards
Rohan
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PostPost by: roadterror » Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:14 pm

Hi Rohan,

Thanks for your advice. The track I'll be preparing it for is the Sepang F1 Circuit which is rather wide with good run offs so based on your reply, I'd be inclined to use the +2.

What's a good gearbox for track work? Can the original fibreglass be lightened by grinding it thinner? I'm going for a minimum weight shell with the original 1600TC motor built to full race specs.

Anyone with experience racing the +2? Will need some tips on suspension set-up, springs...

Cheers,
Brian








From: "Rohan Hodges" <***@***.***>
Date: Tue 27/06/2006 6:57 PM SGT
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: Elan +2 for racing?

Brian
Whats best depends on the regulations yuo race under and the type of
tracks you race on.

If you can race a twin cam europa or a cross flow modified S2 Europa
then this will be quickest in most circumstances except perhaps very
tight tracks.

If the race tracks are tight and regulations also tight as to things
such as tyre widths and body and engine mods then an Elan will be best.
Otherwise you really need to be able to widen an Elans track width to
keep it competitive with a Europa of similar weight and engine power in
faster corners.

If tracks are wide open and you can carry speed through corners and you
can lighten the car in a big way then a plus 2 can be good as you can
get a fair amount of weight out by removing trim. A plus 2's handling
and speed is significantly better than a standard width Elans in fast
sweeping corners. Even with extreme lightening its always going to be
about 100kg more than a similarly prepared Elan or Europa so will
suffer in stop go style corners.

Any of them need money spent on engines and drive trains to be
competitive and reliable and on suspensions to get the rights springs,
shockers, roll bars, bushes etc.

If your running slicks and very stiff suspensions to get them to work
then the chassis will need soome reinforcing if you want a long trouble
free life. If you search the forums for photos or talk to Tony Thompson
in the UK you will see the sorts of mods required.

regards
Rohan
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:25 am

Brian

The Quaiffe close ratio internals for the standard 4 speed box are
good for the power and torque of a full race engine. Other gear boxes
depend on your race regulations but lots of later Ford 5 speeders
(type 9 or type 75) have been fitted by various people.

If fitting a real full race engine and sticky tyres you need to work
though the whole drive train especially in a plus 2 with its greater
weight to prevent failures.

e.g.

solid bonded clutch and beefier torsion springs. Heavier pressure
plate diaphram spring ( or go a full race clutch if thats your
preference).
Quaiffe GB internals, make sure the layshaft is a very good press fit
in the box at the maximum end of the interference tolerance. If not
it will spin and ruin the box casing.
Tail shaft is Ok
Quaiffe LSD standard ring gear and pinion OK. I wouold guess go for a
3.77 diff for the F1 circuit with a 8500 rpm engine on 185 /60 x 13
profile equivalent tyres from what I have seen of the circuit on TV.
New billet diff output shafts
Solid CV or uni joint shafts to replace donuts
New billet hub shafts
New wheels.


Getting weight out of the plus 2 will come first by removing all the
trim you legally can and replacing the glass with plastic where you
can.

Light weight mechanical components available depending on what your
regulations allow. See Tony Thompson Racing in the Uk for details of
things like magnesium bell housing, gear box casing, diff nose, hubs
etc.

Spyder make a nice chassis and suspension components which is similar
in weight to original but much stronger if your regs allow
replacement of original chassis. TTR make an Elan competition
chassis along the lines of the original and could probably be
persuaded to make the same in plus 2 length.

Grinding the fibre glass body to lighten it seems like a lot of work
to remove a very small amount of weight. New thin bonnet, door and
boot would be easier to do.

Only guy I know seriously competing in a Plus 2 is in Sydney
Australia dont know if he reads any of the Lotus groups but I can
probably put you in touch with him. Steve Taylor at the Elan Factory
has helped with a lot of his preparation work and may also be able to
advise.

regards
Rohan

--- In ***@***.***, Brian Chan <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Rohan,

Thanks for your advice. The track I'll be preparing it for is the
Sepang F1 Circuit which is rather wide with good run offs so based on

your reply, I'd be inclined to use the +2.

What's a good gearbox for track work? Can the original fibreglass
be lightened by grinding it thinner? I'm going for a minimum weight

shell with the original 1600TC motor built to full race specs.

Anyone with experience racing the +2? Will need some tips on
suspension set-up, springs...


Cheers,
Brian







>
> From: "Rohan Hodges" <[email protected]>
> Date: Tue 27/06/2006 6:57 PM SGT
> To: ***@***.***
> Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: Elan +2 for racing?
>
> Brian
> Whats best depends on the regulations yuo race under and the type
of

> tracks you race on.
>
> If you can race a twin cam europa or a cross flow modified S2
Europa

> then this will be quickest in most circumstances except perhaps
very

> tight tracks.
>
> If the race tracks are tight and regulations also tight as to
things

> such as tyre widths and body and engine mods then an Elan will be
best.

> Otherwise you really need to be able to widen an Elans track
width to

> keep it competitive with a Europa of similar weight and engine
power in

> faster corners.
>
> If tracks are wide open and you can carry speed through corners
and you

> can lighten the car in a big way then a plus 2 can be good as you
can

> get a fair amount of weight out by removing trim. A plus 2's
handling

> and speed is significantly better than a standard width Elans in
fast

> sweeping corners. Even with extreme lightening its always going
to be

> about 100kg more than a similarly prepared Elan or Europa so will
> suffer in stop go style corners.
>
> Any of them need money spent on engines and drive trains to be
> competitive and reliable and on suspensions to get the rights
springs,

> shockers, roll bars, bushes etc.
>
> If your running slicks and very stiff suspensions to get them to
work

> then the chassis will need soome reinforcing if you want a long
trouble

> free life. If you search the forums for photos or talk to Tony
Thompson

> in the UK you will see the sorts of mods required.
>
> regards
> Rohan
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PostPost by: "Clivey Boy" » Thu Jun 29, 2006 4:03 pm

Brian
I believe Pat Thomas at Kelvedon Lotus has raced a Plus 2.

http://www.racecar.co.uk/kelvedonlotus/

Clive
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PostPost by: mikecauser » Thu Jun 29, 2006 7:48 pm

On Thu, 29 Jun 2006 15:34:12 +0000 "Clivey Boy" <***@***.***> wrote:

I believe Pat Thomas at Kelvedon Lotus has raced a Plus 2.

There have been a few more: Roy Fellows, manager of the Parts Dept at
Paul Matty, hillclimbs a lightweight +2, and 5 or 6 years ago Peter Day
built one to order for historic rallying. After a couple of years, and
some sucess, the car had an accident, and was sold as a wreck through
Matty's, who may be able to say where is is now. I do know the
original owner, who lives nearby, and I could ask him if I can reveal
how much it cost to build.

Tracking down the Ashmore brothers who built and raced a
lightweight-bodied +2 in the 1960s may yield some information too. The
car still exists, but it may not be as originaly raced.



Mike
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