Elan Hood Pins

PostPost by: archigator » Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:47 pm

I'm looking for a nice pair of hood pins for the rear of my Elan hood
(bonnet) at the windshield (windscreen). I once saw a pair of pins
(pins)that had a perforated metal fin that stood 90 degrees to the
hood, and turned sideways to release the hood. (Might have been on a
Ferrari.) Any ideas for good looking and functional pins would be
appreciated. (It must also work for fiberglass... but you knew that
already.) I'm tired of having my hood pop up at the most inopportune
moments, like at 70 mph.

I am one of those guys who likes to keep it all stock, so I may not
have the nerve to do it anyway. Firstly, I'm going to see about
lengthening the release cable, because that's where my problem lies I
think. But I'd like to investigate my options...

Gary
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'71 Elan Sprint
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PostPost by: Rob_LaMoreaux » Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:44 pm

I have not had my bonnet pop open at speed, but just in case I added a cable
from the bridge at the back of the head to the trailing edge of the bonnet.
I fiberglassed a washer to the hole I made in the lower edge of the bonnet,
then before shutting the bonnet all the way I hook a caribeaner (one of
those D shaped robe end pieces that have the spring closed opening) through
the hole. So if my bonnet ever does come unlatched it only opens an inch or
so and I can still see to drive.

Rob LaMoreaux

A & D Technology Inc.
4622 Runway Blvd.
Ann Arbor, MI 48108
734-822-9696
Fax 734-973-1103
Main Desk 734-973-1111
www.mtspt.com
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PostPost by: triumphelan » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:30 pm

I had my bonnet flip over the top backwards if anything had been behind it would have done serious damage to them .I now have bonnet pins
Regards John 1969 S4 dhc
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert D. LaMoreaux
To: ***@***.*** ; 'Gary'
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Elan Hood Pins


I have not had my bonnet pop open at speed, but just in case I added a cable
from the bridge at the back of the head to the trailing edge of the bonnet.
I fiberglassed a washer to the hole I made in the lower edge of the bonnet,
then before shutting the bonnet all the way I hook a caribeaner (one of
those D shaped robe end pieces that have the spring closed opening) through
the hole. So if my bonnet ever does come unlatched it only opens an inch or
so and I can still see to drive.

Rob LaMoreaux

A & D Technology Inc.
4622 Runway Blvd.
Ann Arbor, MI 48108
734-822-9696
Fax 734-973-1103
Main Desk 734-973-1111
www.mtspt.com
Work email: ***@***.***
Home email: ***@***.***











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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:47 pm

John,
I was recently told that this could not happen, on the Elan.net forum! I
was suggesting that it would not be a good idea to run without the big
spring at the front of the hood/bonnet because I thought the bonnet
could flip out if the catches released at speed; seems that I was
correct after all.

The best looking hood pins that I have seen are Dave Bean's Oddie Pins,
unfortunately they are excruciatingly expensive; I fitted some sliding
pins with a ring and safety catch, as used by most racers, not the
prettiest but my bonnet now stays down above 100mph!

I think there is a photo of the Oddies either in the files or photos
section, although they are mis-named Audi pins.

Cheers,
Pete.

John Harrison wrote:

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PostPost by: poiuyt » Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:20 am

I recommend www.summitracing.com
See part number SUM-G3871, Summit Hood Pin Set.

You will have to make a two right-angle brackets to bolt through the
firewall to have a place to mount the bottom of the pin, but they
work fine and look pretty good.

These were on my car when I bought it in 2003. See my car on the
photo pages, Steve's 1969 Elan.

Steve B.


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Steve B.<br>1969 Elan S4
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PostPost by: abstamaria » Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:43 pm

Gary,

Sorry for the delay. Here are close-ups of the hood-pin brackets.

Because my TTR aluminum radiator sits over the rack, I can't and don't use
the hood spring. Accordingly, I need a pull to open the bonnet (hood),
which normally sits in the closed position. I used a rubber zipper pull
from a scuba shop for the purpose, shown in the 2nd photo.

I hope these are useful.

Warm regards,

Andres
45/8439
Manila

PS: Photos sent to your email address directly. Hope you get them.
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:58 pm

If those pictures could be posted, I would love to see them. Would
also like to figure out how to eliminate the hood spring in front as
the wider alum rad does make it a challenge to disconnect. Thanks. Dn


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PostPost by: Elan45 » Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:05 pm

Has anyone thought of using Dzus fittings to hold down the rear edge of
the bonnet. I'm not afraid of losing the bonnet at speed on a street
car, but I've allways been concerned about an engine fire and having to
mess w/ the cable(s) to get the bonnet open. Hood pins or Dzus 1/4 turn
fasteners would solve that problem and the Dzus solution would be much
cleaner looking and aerodynamic. I'm seriously considering this for my
45/26R project that will spend some time on the track. The Dzus wire
clip could be mounted to corner brackets similar to those Andres has
done, w/ a riser to get up close to the bottom of the bonnet.

Roger



Sorry for the delay. Here are close-ups of the hood-pin brackets.

Because my TTR aluminum radiator sits over the rack, I can't and don't
use
the hood spring. Accordingly, I need a pull to open the bonnet (hood),

which normally sits in the closed position. I used a rubber zipper
pull
from a scuba shop for the purpose, shown in the 2nd photo.

I hope these are useful.

Warm regards,

Andres
45/8439
Manila

PS: Photos sent to your email address directly. Hope you get them.









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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:43 pm

Before everyone tosses the original cable release mechanism and replaces it
with hood pins or Dzus fasteners, consider the following:

1. I recently fixed a non-working system by undoing a modification the PO
had made. In order to make the engine compartment look tidy, he had attached
the cable to the fire wall so that it ran across the top of it, out of the way
of the engine. If yours is set up this way, that is probably why it doesn't
work.

2. Lotus has redesigned the clips. The new ones do not have the break on
the back side which can sometimes catch the bonnet by accident. Big
improvement! No more chipping paint while you frantically try to release it with a screw
driver.

3. And speaking of screw drivers, I can't believe that in the event of an
emergency, digging through the glove box for the screw driver required to
release the Dzus fasteners, then undoing either the two Dzus fasteners or releasing
the two hood pin clips could be faster than simply pulling the cable release.

4. Granted that Dzus fasteners are cleaner looking than hood pins, the
original cable system is the cleanest looking system of all -- nothing on the
bonnet!

5. The original system (on my car, a single cable) requires plenty of
adjustment and lubrication, but when you get it right, it works like a dream.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents. Hopefully it helps someone.

Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
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PostPost by: davidallen » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:55 pm

It is worth point out, that on the +2 at least, it is the cable sleeve which
"operates" the catches, not the cable. Consequently, if it is not lubricated
or worse, fixed to the fire wall, the catches will not work correctly.

David (+2, with a new bonnet release)

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
Sent: 28 February 2006 15:42
To: ***@***.***; ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Hood Pins


Before everyone tosses the original cable release mechanism and replaces it
with hood pins or Dzus fasteners, consider the following:

1. I recently fixed a non-working system by undoing a modification the PO
had made. In order to make the engine compartment look tidy, he had
attached
the cable to the fire wall so that it ran across the top of it, out of the
way
of the engine. If yours is set up this way, that is probably why it doesn't

work.

2. Lotus has redesigned the clips. The new ones do not have the break on
the back side which can sometimes catch the bonnet by accident. Big
improvement! No more chipping paint while you frantically try to release it
with a screw
driver.

3. And speaking of screw drivers, I can't believe that in the event of an
emergency, digging through the glove box for the screw driver required to
release the Dzus fasteners, then undoing either the two Dzus fasteners or
releasing
the two hood pin clips could be faster than simply pulling the cable
release.

4. Granted that Dzus fasteners are cleaner looking than hood pins, the
original cable system is the cleanest looking system of all -- nothing on
the
bonnet!

5. The original system (on my car, a single cable) requires plenty of
adjustment and lubrication, but when you get it right, it works like a
dream.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents. Hopefully it helps someone.

Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
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PostPost by: saarhus » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:59 pm

Here are the hood pins I made for my S3 Coupe in 1971. I used 1/8 in alum angle stock and a pair of hood pins I got form some dimly remembered source. This was after the hood doing the giant Frisbee on the Darmstadt to Frankfurt Autobahn. For some reason, I wasn't using the front hood spring. No more trouble after that. Excuse the humongous size, hope you can load it ok.

Stan
66 S3 Elan Coupe'
64 S1 Elan Roadster

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PostPost by: saarhus » Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:29 pm

I guess the photos got stripped off. I have put them in a Yahoo LotusElan folder "Aarhus 66 Coupe Progress".

Stan

----- Original Message -----
From: Stan Aarhus
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Hood Pins


Here are the hood pins I made for my S3 Coupe in 1971. I used 1/8 in alum angle stock and a pair of hood pins I got form some dimly remembered source. This was after the hood doing the giant Frisbee on the Darmstadt to Frankfurt Autobahn. For some reason, I wasn't using the front hood spring. No more trouble after that. Excuse the humongous size, hope you can load it ok.

Stan
66 S3 Elan Coupe'
64 S1 Elan Roadster
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:31 pm

I do agree with Frank on this. The original system is much better and
can work OK when set up properly.

I also agree with Frank on cable routing. I actually made a stand off
bracket for mine from the cam cover so that the cable follows its
natural curve. I think a similar thing was standard on the later Sprints?

I also regularly oil the cable to keep everything sweet and smooth :)


John
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PostPost by: trw99 » Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:55 pm

Here is the dealer service bulletin which details the modified
catches, cable route and cable clip, issued in 1972:

http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/lsb_bo ... able.shtml

Hope this is helpful.

Tim
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PostPost by: mikecauser » Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:06 pm

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:05:29 -0500 "Roger Sieling" <***@***.***> wrote:


The snag with Dzus fasteners for a road car is that they look rather
knocked-about after a few applications. Any paint soon chips off and
the slot gets mangled by some numbskull using too small a screwdriver.
On a racer that's fine though, and for added aero get some racer-tape
matching the body colour and put a small piece over each fastener ;-)


OTOH, if I thought en engine fire was that likely I'd have a plumbed-in
extinguisher system....



Mike
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