Lotus Elan

Re-built engine won't start

PostPost by: Fred Talmadge » Thu Sep 15, 2005 11:58 pm

Okay I'll admit to being frustrated after building an engine (several
times) every time it was the ignition. Either the distributor is 180
degrees off or the plug wires are in the the wrong order.

Take a day or two off, relax, come back recheck the ignition firing
order. And when it does start it will the sweetest sound next to a new
born baby.

Fred

ps My brother just had a Mustang V8 built up by professionals and it
turned out to be a bad head gasget. It started but ran poorley.


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Fred Talmadge
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PostPost by: Arno Church » Fri Sep 16, 2005 6:38 am

I know , I know, but we have a double meaning for the word.
In any case I think the first use of the item ( torch) was to make a light that you can carry to where you want to see something!
It is also called a flashlight here , but we are not exactly taking photos of the venturis at the moment
What is the correct name in US of A ?
Arno
----- Original Message -----
From: Tebbutt, Bill
To: '***@***.***'
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 9:27 PM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Arno,

Watch your choise of diction here! "Torch" probably results in a really bad
outcome over here in North America!

-----Original Message-----
From: Arno Church [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: 2005/09/15 15:22
To: ***@***.***
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Just a maybe, are you sure that your ignition timing is not 180 deg out. If
you have spark, checked that the pump jets squirt fuel when opening the
throttle ) look into the carb choke with a torch while opening the
butterflies by hand) then the symptom indicates to the timing

Arno



_____

From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.*** Behalf
Of ***@***.***
Sent: 15 September 2005 09:01 PM
To: lotus elan net
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start



Hi all,
I have just put back the engine after ages rebuilding it. Miles Wilkins
did the bottom end, QED the top end, so everything renewed. Turned over in
the car, no go at all. New points, condenser and coil, so
I have good sparks. New plugs, and fresh petrol. Plugs smell of petrol
when removed so I assume petrol is getting in.
Timed static at 10 bTDC, But still does not attempt to fire. Points set
to 15 thou, plugs gapped at 30 thou.
Have I missed something obvious? Can I do a compression test cold? Will
this tell me anything?
Sorry about the post, but I really am at my wits end.
Kind regards
Jeff 72 +2





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PostPost by: "Martin Stuart" » Fri Sep 16, 2005 7:19 am

Remember that your engine is a four-stroke: Induction, compression on one revolution, iginition/power and exhaust on the other. It fires each cylinder ony once every two revolutions.

It is therefore possible to have the cylinder at TDC but the ignition not firing (ie on the changeover from exhaust to induction). If you have the ignition timed so that it is trying to fire the cylinder when the cams are timed to be exhausting spent combustion gases prior to drawing in fresh charge, you won't get vmuch of a response - there is nothing in the cylinder to ignite!

This is what we are all, in various ways, trying to explain by saying that ignition timing is 180 degrees out.

Martin
----- Original Message -----
From: ***@***.***
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


My feeling is maybe 180 out, BUT, when I rebuilt the engine I did make
sure that the cam sprocket marks were adjacent at TDC.
number four cylinder, the cam lobes point toward each other, so cam timing is ok ( I think).
"Martin Stuart"
 

PostPost by: "Jeff at tiscali&quo » Fri Sep 16, 2005 9:51 am

Hi Tony,
What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
together.
I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used throughout
the build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last running
before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
New coil, points and condenser.
I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt spent so
much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field and
torch it.
Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done
something stupid.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

Tony Vaccaro wrote:

With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with each
other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from the coil
should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head. You start
inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection for the
spark) at
about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
number
one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)

What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm meter

between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.

I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get conductivity
.then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get conductivity.and that
will be the correct timing. You now know that #1 is at about 10 oclock on
the dist..so put your #1 wire in there. Then keep going clock wise
with the
correct firing order.


This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
wrong..or
put it in 180 degress out.


Tony Vaccaro



"Jeff at tiscali&quo
 

PostPost by: "Ian Phillips" » Fri Sep 16, 2005 9:59 am

Jeff

Sparks, yes, but are they at the right time?

Where in the UK are you located.

Ian Phillips

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.*** Behalf
Of ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 10:47 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start

Hi Tony,
What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
together.
I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used throughout the
build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last running
before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
New coil, points and condenser.
I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt spent so
much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field and torch
it.
Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done something
stupid.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

Tony Vaccaro wrote:

With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with
each other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from
the coil should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head.
You start inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection
for the
spark) at
about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
number one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)

What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm meter

between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.

I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get
conductivity .then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get
conductivity.and that will be the correct timing. You now know that
#1 is at about 10 oclock on the dist..so put your #1 wire in there.
Then keep going clock wise with the correct firing order.


This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
wrong..or put it in 180 degress out.


Tony Vaccaro









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"Ian Phillips"
 

PostPost by: "Jeff at tiscali&quo » Fri Sep 16, 2005 10:43 am

Hi Ian,
I'm in Poole Dorset.
I should be working, but I've just gone into the garage and had a look
at the carbs. I have D'ellorto's.
Numbers 3&4 squirt petrol into the barrel, 1&2 nothing. All butterflies
open, but not to horizontal as in the manual, when I fully move the
throttle.
So the problem looks like fuel.
Regards
Jeff

Ian Phillips wrote:

Jeff

Sparks, yes, but are they at the right time?

Where in the UK are you located.

Ian Phillips

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
Behalf
Of ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 10:47 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start

Hi Tony,
What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
together.
I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used
throughout the
build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last running
before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
New coil, points and condenser.
I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt spent so
much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field and torch
it.
Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done something
stupid.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

Tony Vaccaro wrote:

> With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with
> each other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from
> the coil should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head.
> You start inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection
> for the
> spark) at
> about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
> number one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)

What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm
meter

> between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.
>
> I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get
> conductivity .then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get
> conductivity.and that will be the correct timing. You now know that
> #1 is at about 10 oclock on the dist..so put your #1 wire in there.
> Then keep going clock wise with the correct firing order.
>
>
> This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
> wrong..or put it in 180 degress out.
>
>
> Tony Vaccaro
>
>
>






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CopyrightC LotusElan.net and the author:
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.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Jeff at tiscali&quo
 

PostPost by: "Sean Murray" » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:21 am

Jeff,

I've been following this. As Tony said, the position of the jackshaft, and accordingly the dist will be in a random position if you have had the head off. You MUST remove the dist and refit it in the correct position AFTER refitting the head, cams, and timing chain. You say you haven't touched the dist cap, could that mean you haven't retimed the dist either ?

If you think the problem is fuel, try squirting BRADEX EASY START in all four barrels. The engine should then start and run for a few seconds, confirming sparks are OK and that fuel is the problem.

Hope this helps,

Sean Murray



----- Original Message -----
From: ***@***.***
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Hi Ian,
I'm in Poole Dorset.
I should be working, but I've just gone into the garage and had a look
at the carbs. I have D'ellorto's.
Numbers 3&4 squirt petrol into the barrel, 1&2 nothing. All butterflies
open, but not to horizontal as in the manual, when I fully move the
throttle.
So the problem looks like fuel.
Regards
Jeff

Ian Phillips wrote:

Jeff

Sparks, yes, but are they at the right time?

Where in the UK are you located.

Ian Phillips

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
Behalf
Of ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 10:47 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start

Hi Tony,
What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
together.
I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used
throughout the
build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last running
before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
New coil, points and condenser.
I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt spent so
much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field and torch
it.
Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done something
stupid.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

Tony Vaccaro wrote:

> With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with
> each other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from
> the coil should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head.
> You start inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection
> for the
> spark) at
> about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
> number one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)

What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm
meter

> between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.
>
> I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get
> conductivity .then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get
> conductivity.and that will be the correct timing. You now know that
> #1 is at about 10 oclock on the dist..so put your #1 wire in there.
> Then keep going clock wise with the correct firing order.
>
>
> This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
> wrong..or put it in 180 degress out.
>
>
> Tony Vaccaro
>
>
>






To search the mailing list archives:
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CopyrightC LotusElan.net and the author:
http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml

.


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"Sean Murray"
 

PostPost by: "Jeff at tiscali&quo » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:33 am

Hi Sean,
The engine has totally been re-built. That means dist and jackshaft et
al. removed. I am aware the the jackshaft position will be random, but
as Tony wrote earlier I have installed the dist at 12 oclock position
rotor at 10 oclock pointing to number 1 lead. Crank at TDC mark, and
exhaust and inlet lobes on number 4 cylinder pointing toward each other,
as in Miles book. Also cam sprocket marks pointing toward each other.
As you can imagine this is driving me nuts. I just want to get in and
drive it!!!
Regards
Jeff

Sean Murray wrote:

Jeff,

I've been following this. As Tony said, the position of the
jackshaft, and accordingly the dist will be in a random position if
you have had the head off. You MUST remove the dist and refit it in
the correct position AFTER refitting the head, cams, and timing
chain. You say you haven't touched the dist cap, could that mean you
haven't retimed the dist either ?

If you think the problem is fuel, try squirting BRADEX EASY START in
all four barrels. The engine should then start and run for a few
seconds, confirming sparks are OK and that fuel is the problem.

Hope this helps,

Sean Murray



----- Original Message -----
From: ***@***.***
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Hi Ian,
I'm in Poole Dorset.
I should be working, but I've just gone into the garage and had a look
at the carbs. I have D'ellorto's.
Numbers 3&4 squirt petrol into the barrel, 1&2 nothing. All butterflies
open, but not to horizontal as in the manual, when I fully move the
throttle.
So the problem looks like fuel.
Regards
Jeff

Ian Phillips wrote:

> Jeff
>
> Sparks, yes, but are they at the right time?
>
> Where in the UK are you located.
>
> Ian Phillips
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
> Behalf
> Of ***@***.***
> Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 10:47 AM
> To: ***@***.***
> Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start
>
> Hi Tony,
> What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
> together.
> I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used
> throughout the
> build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
> I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last
running
> before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
> New coil, points and condenser.
> I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt
spent so
> much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field
and torch
> it.
> Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done
something
> stupid.
> Kind regards
> Jeff 72+2
>
> Tony Vaccaro wrote:
>
> > With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with
> > each other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from
> > the coil should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head.
> > You start inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection
> > for the
> > spark) at
> > about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
> > number one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)
>
> What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm
> meter
>
> > between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.
> >
> > I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get
> > conductivity .then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get
> > conductivity.and that will be the correct timing. You now know that
> > #1 is at about 10 oclock on the dist..so put your #1 wire in there.
> > Then keep going clock wise with the correct firing order.
> >
> >
> > This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
> > wrong..or put it in 180 degress out.
> >
> >
> > Tony Vaccaro
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To search the mailing list archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html
>
> CopyrightC LotusElan.net and the author:
> http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml
>
.


------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Jeff at tiscali&quo
 

PostPost by: Arno Church » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:52 am

If 3 and 4 squirts petrol , at least those cylinders will attempt to fire ,also the squirting is only from the pump jets . Inlet "suction" should draw enough fuel off the idle jets to get the cylinders to attempt firing. That is if the idle jets and aslo the main jets and their passages are unblocked. Is there fuel in the no 1 carburettor float chambers ?
Arno

----- Original Message -----
From: ***@***.***
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Hi Ian,
I'm in Poole Dorset.
I should be working, but I've just gone into the garage and had a look
at the carbs. I have D'ellorto's.
Numbers 3&4 squirt petrol into the barrel, 1&2 nothing. All butterflies
open, but not to horizontal as in the manual, when I fully move the
throttle.
So the problem looks like fuel.
Regards
Jeff

Ian Phillips wrote:

Jeff

Sparks, yes, but are they at the right time?

Where in the UK are you located.

Ian Phillips

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
Behalf
Of ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 10:47 AM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start

Hi Tony,
What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
together.
I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used
throughout the
build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last running
before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
New coil, points and condenser.
I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt spent so
much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field and torch
it.
Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done something
stupid.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

Tony Vaccaro wrote:

> With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with
> each other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from
> the coil should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head.
> You start inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection
> for the
> spark) at
> about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
> number one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)

What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm
meter

> between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.
>
> I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get
> conductivity .then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get
> conductivity.and that will be the correct timing. You now know that
> #1 is at about 10 oclock on the dist..so put your #1 wire in there.
> Then keep going clock wise with the correct firing order.
>
>
> This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
> wrong..or put it in 180 degress out.
>
>
> Tony Vaccaro
>
>
>






To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html

CopyrightC LotusElan.net and the author:
http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml

.


------------------------------------------------------------------------






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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arno Church
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 665
Joined: 24 Oct 2003

PostPost by: Arno Church » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:52 am

Easy on the Easy Start. That stuff is so flammable that it can detonate under cranking and cause rings to break!
A once off little squirt is not too bad though. Just do not try to run the engine on it once the engine started and a fueling problem is causing it to cut
BTW my son is using Under Arm Charm ( aerosol deodorant) to start his 2 stroke bike engine , as effective as Easy Start !
Arno

Jeff,

I've been following this. As Tony said, the position of the jackshaft, and accordingly the dist will be in a random position if you have had the head off. You MUST remove the dist and refit it in the correct position AFTER refitting the head, cams, and timing chain. You say you haven't touched the dist cap, could that mean you haven't retimed the dist either ?

If you think the problem is fuel, try squirting BRADEX EASY START in all four barrels. The engine should then start and run for a few seconds, confirming sparks are OK and that fuel is the problem.

Hope this helps,

Sean Murray
Arno Church
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 665
Joined: 24 Oct 2003

PostPost by: davidallen » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:53 am

Someone I am sure will correct me here, but if you have just changed your
coil check if you have the correct 6V or 12V unit. The 6V one is to be used
with a ballast resistor and is normally fitted with a pre-engaged starter as
part of a "cold start" circuit.

The two are not interchangeable and as you said you had changed your
coil..........

David

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
Sent: 15 September 2005 22:40
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Hi thanks for all the replies!
I have sparks, checked them with a strobe light. they do appear at
around TDC.
My feeling is maybe 180 out, BUT, when I rebuilt the engine I did make
sure that the cam sprocket marks were adjacent at TDC.
number four cylinder, the cam lobes point toward each other, so cam
timing is ok ( I think).
What is this ballast resistor that goes on the coil? I had it on my
original coil, but replaced it, with another and the car still went.
My brand new coil doesnt have the ballast resistor... do I need it?
Other than timing could be the carbs I suppose.
Thanks for all the help. Will try again tomorrow!
Jeff

Briggs Pletcher wrote:

All you need is spark, fuel and air.

So check them all.








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PostPost by: "Sean Murray" » Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:53 am

Jeff,

Do I understand you have you loads of sparks, but maybe not at the right time ?
I don't know what cap you have, but in my experience No 1 Lead is normally in the 2 o'clock position .
Have you checked with a timing light, a 10w bulb in series with the dist lead ?
Remove the plugs and turn the engine slowly by hand. The light should go out at the appropriate TDC setting.

Sean


----- Original Message -----
From: ***@***.***
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re-built engine won't start


Hi Sean,
The engine has totally been re-built. That means dist and jackshaft et
al. removed. I am aware the the jackshaft position will be random, but
as Tony wrote earlier I have installed the dist at 12 oclock position
rotor at 10 oclock pointing to number 1 lead. Crank at TDC mark, and
exhaust and inlet lobes on number 4 cylinder pointing toward each other,
as in Miles book. Also cam sprocket marks pointing toward each other.
As you can imagine this is driving me nuts. I just want to get in and
drive it!!!
Regards
Jeff
"Sean Murray"
 

PostPost by: "Brian Goodison" » Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:07 pm

--- In ***@***.***, "[email protected]" <jeff.taylor-
[email protected]> wrote:
I would tow it to a field and torch it.

While this is all going on KEEP a Fire Extinguisher handy or you
might
just tourch it!
Brian
64Elan/72Sprint/Birkin T.C.Seven
"Brian Goodison"
 

PostPost by: "Roger Sieling" » Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:36 pm

Jeff,

If you are certain that you are not 180deg off on distributor timing, then I will suggest something else.

I know you have said that you have replaced the points, cond etc so you know you have spark, but have you actually pulled off a plug lead while cranking it over to see a good blue spark? If you haven't, I'm going to suggest that you check your points instalation.

If these are the assemble on the post type points, and they should be, manynovices will assemble them just enough wrong that they are always grounded, and then no fire.

They should be assembled on the screw post so that the flat insulating washer is on bottom, then the spring element of the point arm, then the two wires from the cond and side lead and then the insulating bobbin goes down thru the wires and into the spring, insuring that the wires cannot touch the screw post which is ground. If you put the bobbin on first, sooner or later the wires will touch the post.

Another thing to examine is the health of that little pigtail wire running between the side of the distributor to the screw post. Sometimes they die internally leaving only the insulation holding at each end. They used to be quite cheap to replace w/ new from Lucas. Also make sure your condenser is good and tight on the plate and screw is tight. They must make a good ground. I've seen people use the wrong screw here which would get tight in the hole before it made a good ground between the condenser and the plate.

Roger

>> ***@***.*** 09/16/05 5:46 AM >>>
Hi Tony,

What you have written below is exactly how I have put my engine back
together.
I have double checked with Miles Wilkins book, ( which I used throughout
the build) and I have refered back to some photo's I took of the engine.
I have not touched the leads from the dist cap sinec it was last running
before the rebuild. I do have sparks.
New coil, points and condenser.
I am at a complete loss as to why it does not start. If I hadnt spent so
much money on engine, and suspension, I would tow it to a field and
torch it.
Thanks for your help though, in confirming that I have not done
something stupid.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

Tony Vaccaro wrote:

With crank set to TDC and the timing marks on the cams lined up with each
other.. you insert the dist.the wire connection that comes from the coil
should be right at the 12 oclock..or closest to the head. You start
inserting it with the rotor (part that hits the connection for the
spark) at
about 9 oclock. As you insert the dist..it will roatate clockwise to
number
one cylinder. (about 10 oclock)

What I do then is put the crank to 12 degrees BTC and then put an ohm meter

between ground and that wire that goes to the back of the dist.

I gently turn the dist within its travel and you should get conductivity
.then none.turn it back counter clockwise so you get conductivity.and that
will be the correct timing. You now know that #1 is at about 10 oclock on
the dist..so put your #1 wire in there. Then keep going clock wise
with the
correct firing order.


This is what we mean by being 180 out. Some people put the dist in
wrong..or
put it in 180 degress out.


Tony Vaccaro









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PostPost by: s2lola » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:04 pm

Jeff,

As you said, looks like fuel. Even though 2 barrels are getting it, that
may not be enough to get it to kick (esp if you've been turning it over
repeatedely and have fouled the plugs that are getting the fuel).

So, take a break. Put the charger on the battery to ensure it is fully
charged. Take out the 2 "wet" plugs and clean them up and reinstall.
Carefully push all the wires onto the plugs making sure that the plugs fit
tight in the metal clips (not the first time for a casually-removed lead to
be reinstalled without the clip touching the plug - been there). If the
Dells are like a Weber, take off the top covers and inspect fuel bowls for
fuel (do this after the engine has been turned over a little (mech pump) or
after running the pump for say 15 secs (elec pump - but turn it off first!).
If there's no fuel in the fuel bowl, check to see if the needle and seat are
not gummed up.

You didn't mention if the carbs were rebuilt at the time, or whether they
were just removed and sat on the shelf during the rebuild. If the latter,
my money's on the needle and seat as the fuel culprit. Again, been there on
the BDA in my Atlantic car.

Arno - Flashlight is the right term here in Canada (and I suspect in the USA
as well), as oppsoed to torch. Torch just brings to mind an image of some
type of open flame!

Cheers,
Bill


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