Lotus Elan

S2 or early S3 Light switch wiring to which terminals

PostPost by: marcfuller » Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:10 pm

I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20 years. Can
anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to which
terminals?
-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
marcfuller
Third Gear
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Posts: 254
Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Location: Monument, Colorado

PostPost by: type36lotus » Tue Jul 05, 2005 2:50 pm

The shop manual shows the pin numbers on the switch for the ignition
and main lights. If you do not have it I can scan and email a copy of
the page to you.

Mike Geiger


--- In ***@***.***, Marc Fuller <[email protected]> wrote:

I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20
years. Can

anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to
which

terminals?
Mike Geiger
66 S3 Coupe', no more :-(
User avatar
type36lotus
Fourth Gear
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Posts: 577
Joined: 17 Sep 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida, USA

PostPost by: marcfuller » Tue Jul 05, 2005 5:44 pm

Mike, Thanks again for your help! Regards, -Marc

At 08:49 AM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
The shop manual shows the pin numbers on the switch for the ignition
and main lights. If you do not have it I can scan and email a copy of
the page to you.

Mike Geiger


--- In ***@***.***, Marc Fuller <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20
years. Can
> anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to
which
> terminals?







To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html


http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml
Yahoo! Groups Links




-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
marcfuller
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 254
Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Location: Monument, Colorado

PostPost by: "Roger Sieling" » Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:19 pm

Marc,

Mike is right about the pin numbers being on the diagram in the manual.
I had to do some extensive wiring repair on my very early pre-aerflow
FHC in the late 70s. I had to replace a number of wires that had been
chopped up by a repair facility for the DPO. I found the best wiring
schematic to use for this car was the S2 one. The coupe did have
electric windows and the extra interior lights that all FHCs have, but
they were just side circuits added on to the main schematic of the S2.

If your car is an S3 or FHC, switches such as the window switches can
be figured out with a volt-ohm meter by connecting the meter's leads to
a pair of terminals on the switch and activating the switch through its
various positions, then check another pair of terminals until you have
tried all posible combinations. Sort of a map of the switch. If there
are only two terminals, then it doesn't matter which way they are
connected.

Always remember that a:

white wire is hot (powered)

Brown is hot when ignition is on

Green are auxiliary circuits that are switched

Blue are headlamps,

red is side lamps and interior lamps

and black wires are grounded.

Grounds are very important in a vehicle w/ a non-conductive (but
flamible) body.

I like to take grounds back to where they can actually locate onto a
chassis bolt.

After you are finished and the battery is still disconnected. Turn on a
thing or two and touch the battey terminal to the battery enough to
power them, but not fastened so if you have screwed up, you can remove
the battery lead very quickly so you don't loose too much smoke. Be very
careful and good luck!

Roger


>> ***@***.*** 07/05/05 1:41 PM >>>

Mike, Thanks again for your help! Regards, -Marc

At 08:49 AM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
The shop manual shows the pin numbers on the switch for the ignition
and main lights. If you do not have it I can scan and email a copy
of

the page to you.

Mike Geiger


--- In ***@***.***, Marc Fuller <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
> I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20
years. Can
> anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to
which
> terminals?







To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html



Yahoo! Groups Links











To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html



Yahoo! Groups Links








**********************************************************************
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they
are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify
the system manager.
This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by
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"Roger Sieling"
 

PostPost by: type36lotus » Wed Jul 06, 2005 12:56 am

Marc/Roger, A trick I stumbled upon after letting the smoke out of a
few too many wires on my NEW wiring harness. Instead of the battery
for initial testing/diagnositcs I used a 6 Amp charger. Enough
current to test everything except for cranking the starter motor.
Mine had a amp meter on it. If there was a short I could hear the
needle "bink" against the side of it's bezel. No smoking wires, no
blown fuses (okay fewer).

Mike Geiger

--- In ***@***.***, "Roger Sieling" <[email protected]> wrote:
Marc,
...

After you are finished and the battery is still disconnected. Turn
on a

thing or two and touch the battey terminal to the battery enough to
power them, but not fastened so if you have screwed up, you can
remove

the battery lead very quickly so you don't loose too much smoke. Be
very

careful and good luck!

Roger
Mike Geiger
66 S3 Coupe', no more :-(
User avatar
type36lotus
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 577
Joined: 17 Sep 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida, USA

PostPost by: poiuyt » Wed Jul 06, 2005 3:14 am

Let me suggest you clip a fuse holder with a 5 or 8 amp fuse to the
positive cable when you touch it to the battery (in a negative ground
car). You'd be surprised how fast a wire with a direct short will
explode if you overload it.

I work in the telephone industry and did just that about 30 years
ago. I had an 18 guage wire literally explode in my hands.

The fuse will protect the wiring while you make these tests. If
you're checking higher current circuits, upgrade the fuse as
necessary.

Steve B.




--- In ***@***.***, "Roger Sieling" <[email protected]> wrote:
Marc,

After you are finished and the battery is still disconnected. Turn
on a

thing or two and touch the battey terminal to the battery enough to
power them, but not fastened so if you have screwed up, you can
remove

the battery lead very quickly so you don't loose too much smoke. Be
very

careful and good luck!

Roger


>>> [email protected] 07/05/05 1:41 PM >>>

Mike, Thanks again for your help! Regards, -Marc

At 08:49 AM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
>The shop manual shows the pin numbers on the switch for the
ignition

>and main lights. If you do not have it I can scan and email a copy
of
>the page to you.
>
>Mike Geiger
>
>
>--- In ***@***.***, Marc Fuller <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >
> > I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20
>years. Can
> > anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to
>which
> > terminals?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To search the mailing list archives:
>
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html

>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>







To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html



Yahoo! Groups Links









**********************************************************************

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they
are addressed. If you have received this email in error please
notify

the system manager.
This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept
by

MIMEsweeper for the presence of computer viruses.
www.mimesweeper.com

**********************************************************************
Steve B.<br>1969 Elan S4
poiuyt
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 346
Joined: 23 Feb 2004

PostPost by: marcfuller » Thu Jul 07, 2005 2:53 pm

Great idea! Thank you!

At 06:55 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
Marc/Roger, A trick I stumbled upon after letting the smoke out of a
few too many wires on my NEW wiring harness. Instead of the battery
for initial testing/diagnositcs I used a 6 Amp charger. Enough
current to test everything except for cranking the starter motor.
Mine had a amp meter on it. If there was a short I could hear the
needle "bink" against the side of it's bezel. No smoking wires, no
blown fuses (okay fewer).

Mike Geiger

--- In ***@***.***, "Roger Sieling" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Marc,
...
> After you are finished and the battery is still disconnected. Turn
on a
> thing or two and touch the battey terminal to the battery enough to
> power them, but not fastened so if you have screwed up, you can
remove
> the battery lead very quickly so you don't loose too much smoke. Be
very
> careful and good luck!
>
> Roger








To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html


http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml
Yahoo! Groups Links




-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
marcfuller
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 254
Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Location: Monument, Colorado

PostPost by: marcfuller » Thu Jul 07, 2005 3:03 pm

Roger,

I appreciate your guidelines for the wire colors and tips. Most
helpful! Thanks!

You and Mike have provided the Rubik's solutions for my efforts on this 66
FHC. Wiring is just about complete. The main problems left before trying
the starting circuits are the rear turn signals and headlights. Everything
else is now seems to be working as expected.

Best regards, -Marc


At 12:18 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
Marc,

Mike is right about the pin numbers being on the diagram in the manual.
I had to do some extensive wiring repair on my very early pre-aerflow
FHC in the late 70s. I had to replace a number of wires that had been
chopped up by a repair facility for the DPO. I found the best wiring
schematic to use for this car was the S2 one. The coupe did have
electric windows and the extra interior lights that all FHCs have, but
they were just side circuits added on to the main schematic of the S2.

If your car is an S3 or FHC, switches such as the window switches can
be figured out with a volt-ohm meter by connecting the meter's leads to
a pair of terminals on the switch and activating the switch through its
various positions, then check another pair of terminals until you have
tried all posible combinations. Sort of a map of the switch. If there
are only two terminals, then it doesn't matter which way they are
connected.

Always remember that a:

white wire is hot (powered)

Brown is hot when ignition is on

Green are auxiliary circuits that are switched

Blue are headlamps,

red is side lamps and interior lamps

and black wires are grounded.

Grounds are very important in a vehicle w/ a non-conductive (but
flamible) body.

I like to take grounds back to where they can actually locate onto a
chassis bolt.

After you are finished and the battery is still disconnected. Turn on a
thing or two and touch the battey terminal to the battery enough to
power them, but not fastened so if you have screwed up, you can remove
the battery lead very quickly so you don't loose too much smoke. Be very
careful and good luck!

Roger


>>> ***@***.*** 07/05/05 1:41 PM >>>

Mike, Thanks again for your help! Regards, -Marc

At 08:49 AM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
>The shop manual shows the pin numbers on the switch for the ignition
>and main lights. If you do not have it I can scan and email a copy
of
>the page to you.
>
>Mike Geiger
>
>
>--- In ***@***.***, Marc Fuller <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >
> > I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20
>years. Can
> > anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to
>which
> > terminals?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To search the mailing list archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html
>
>
> http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
marcfuller
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 254
Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Location: Monument, Colorado

PostPost by: "Roger Sieling" » Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:14 pm

Marc,

Your very welcome. Anything else just email or call. Glad to help.

Roger

>> ***@***.*** 07/07/05 11:03 AM >>>
Roger,


I appreciate your guidelines for the wire colors and tips. Most
helpful! Thanks!

You and Mike have provided the Rubik's solutions for my efforts on this 66 FHC. Wiring is just about complete. The main problems left before trying the starting circuits are the rear turn signals and headlights. Everything
else is now seems to be working as expected.

Best regards, -Marc


At 12:18 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
Marc,

Mike is right about the pin numbers being on the diagram in the manual.
I had to do some extensive wiring repair on my very early pre-aerflow
FHC in the late 70s. I had to replace a number of wires that had been
chopped up by a repair facility for the DPO. I found the best wiring
schematic to use for this car was the S2 one. The coupe did have
electric windows and the extra interior lights that all FHCs have, but
they were just side circuits added on to the main schematic of the S2.

If your car is an S3 or FHC, switches such as the window switches can
be figured out with a volt-ohm meter by connecting the meter's leads to
a pair of terminals on the switch and activating the switch through its
various positions, then check another pair of terminals until you have
tried all posible combinations. Sort of a map of the switch. If there
are only two terminals, then it doesn't matter which way they are
connected.

Always remember that a:

white wire is hot (powered)

Brown is hot when ignition is on

Green are auxiliary circuits that are switched

Blue are headlamps,

red is side lamps and interior lamps

and black wires are grounded.

Grounds are very important in a vehicle w/ a non-conductive (but
flamible) body.

I like to take grounds back to where they can actually locate onto a
chassis bolt.

After you are finished and the battery is still disconnected. Turn on a
thing or two and touch the battey terminal to the battery enough to
power them, but not fastened so if you have screwed up, you can remove
the battery lead very quickly so you don't loose too much smoke. Be very
careful and good luck!

Roger


>>> ***@***.*** 07/05/05 1:41 PM >>>

Mike, Thanks again for your help! Regards, -Marc

At 08:49 AM 7/5/2005, you wrote:
>The shop manual shows the pin numbers on the switch for the ignition
>and main lights. If you do not have it I can scan and email a copy
of
>the page to you.
>
>Mike Geiger
>
>
>--- In ***@***.***, Marc Fuller <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >
> > I am reassembling a 66 Elan that has been apart for close to 20
>years. Can
> > anyone help with the light switch wires? What color wires go to
>which
> > terminals?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To search the mailing list archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html
>
>
> http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>







To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html



Yahoo! Groups Links









**********************************************************************
This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and
intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they
are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify
the system manager.
This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by
MIMEsweeper for the presence of computer viruses.
www.mimesweeper.com
**********************************************************************
"Roger Sieling"
 

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