Paint
Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 3:28 am
On Wed, Jun 22, 2005 at 07:28:33PM -0000, nebogipfel2004 wrote:
Thanks for the reply on this. Do you have a second choice on
'good quality primer'? part of the attraction to the water based base
is not having to deal with anything as noxious as isocyanate. While I
do have a positive flow respirator I really don't want to mess with K2s
around a home shop.
I think most of the problems with this have been resolved with
the autoair by using polyu as a clearcoat. Their sales material states
that the base is porous and the clearcoat actually bonds with base. I
remember the first time I shot the base I was thinking there was no
way the clear was going to be smooth as the base was almost flat in
texture and sheen. But after about 3 light coats of polyurethane it
smoothed out nicely and I was pleased with the result once I got the
final (thing I did 5 total on the helmet, used a satin finish on the
seat as I was more concerned with just getting it sealed as only the
underside and back are visible.
I should mention to anyone planing on using autoair the heat
cure step is important (I use a hand held heat gun and it really
doesn't take that much time/effort to do) as unless it is put out in
the sun the basecoat won't cure well just air drying (even in my dry
Colorado climate). The base will lift with masking, etc unless it is
completely cured.
I can't disagree with you John, most of the 'stellar' paint
jobs I've see use 2K. I'm just looking for something I can do myself
without a lot of setup and not have to worry about it.
fj..
--
The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender,
religion, economic status, or ethnic background, is that, deep down
inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.
-- Dave Barry
Thanks for the reply on this. Do you have a second choice on
'good quality primer'? part of the attraction to the water based base
is not having to deal with anything as noxious as isocyanate. While I
do have a positive flow respirator I really don't want to mess with K2s
around a home shop.
I think most of the problems with this have been resolved with
the autoair by using polyu as a clearcoat. Their sales material states
that the base is porous and the clearcoat actually bonds with base. I
remember the first time I shot the base I was thinking there was no
way the clear was going to be smooth as the base was almost flat in
texture and sheen. But after about 3 light coats of polyurethane it
smoothed out nicely and I was pleased with the result once I got the
final (thing I did 5 total on the helmet, used a satin finish on the
seat as I was more concerned with just getting it sealed as only the
underside and back are visible.
I should mention to anyone planing on using autoair the heat
cure step is important (I use a hand held heat gun and it really
doesn't take that much time/effort to do) as unless it is put out in
the sun the basecoat won't cure well just air drying (even in my dry
Colorado climate). The base will lift with masking, etc unless it is
completely cured.
I can't disagree with you John, most of the 'stellar' paint
jobs I've see use 2K. I'm just looking for something I can do myself
without a lot of setup and not have to worry about it.
fj..
--
The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender,
religion, economic status, or ethnic background, is that, deep down
inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.
-- Dave Barry