Paint

PostPost by: grat » Thu Jun 23, 2005 3:28 am

On Wed, Jun 22, 2005 at 07:28:33PM -0000, nebogipfel2004 wrote:

Thanks for the reply on this. Do you have a second choice on
'good quality primer'? part of the attraction to the water based base
is not having to deal with anything as noxious as isocyanate. While I
do have a positive flow respirator I really don't want to mess with K2s
around a home shop.


I think most of the problems with this have been resolved with
the autoair by using polyu as a clearcoat. Their sales material states
that the base is porous and the clearcoat actually bonds with base. I
remember the first time I shot the base I was thinking there was no
way the clear was going to be smooth as the base was almost flat in
texture and sheen. But after about 3 light coats of polyurethane it
smoothed out nicely and I was pleased with the result once I got the
final (thing I did 5 total on the helmet, used a satin finish on the
seat as I was more concerned with just getting it sealed as only the
underside and back are visible.
I should mention to anyone planing on using autoair the heat
cure step is important (I use a hand held heat gun and it really
doesn't take that much time/effort to do) as unless it is put out in
the sun the basecoat won't cure well just air drying (even in my dry
Colorado climate). The base will lift with masking, etc unless it is
completely cured.


I can't disagree with you John, most of the 'stellar' paint
jobs I've see use 2K. I'm just looking for something I can do myself
without a lot of setup and not have to worry about it.

fj..
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The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender,
religion, economic status, or ethnic background, is that, deep down
inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.
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1969 S4 45/9297
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PostPost by: Gordon Sauer » Thu Jun 23, 2005 5:50 am

As much as gel coat is mentioned, has anybody actually regelcoated their
fiberglass before priming and topcoating? I just finished doing a sailboat and
did use gelcoat to resurface the old gelcoat, then primed and painted. Only
the paint went on as a spray, with the gel coat and primer nicely going on
using special, dense foam rollers designed for the application. I also
realized my +2S roof in the original silver flake/clear finish, done by a boat place
about six years ago, was done with gelcoat applied before priming and
painting. Regelcoating would certainly help some of the very mild crazing and
address the issues some people have raised about exposed glass fibers wicking
the paint. I realize the gel coating is no substitute for repairs to take out
all the stress cracks and all that work would have to be done as usual. I'm
not sure that the two pack primers and paints may be enough--the sailboat was
done with gelcoat, then two pack urethane primers and paints--all as
recommended by boat people and the various books on how to do it. From what I can
tell as I chemically stripped my +2 it was gelcoated and heavily primed prior
to the topcoat being applied. Gordon Sauer
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Thu Jun 23, 2005 5:41 pm

Franklin, I think you just have to accept that paint is a noxious
substance (regardless of type really) take as many precautions as
possible and go for it.

You could always 2K prime "out of doors" you do not have to worry too
much about dust and insect bodies in primer and provided there is
nothing for the overspray to stick to immediately down wind, you
should be OK just for a one off job.

Decent celly primer is OK if you thin it as little as possible and
give it plenty of drying time but it will not "hold out" like 2K and
you are putting cellulose solvents onto the glass - something to be
avoided if possible

John
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