Removing Weber Carb's

PostPost by: ElliottN » Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:30 am

It's time I took the carb's off - need to overhaul the hydraulics
and while we're there might as look at the fuel pump and dizzy (it's
a rhd s4).
So my reading is to remove the airbox cover; disconnect fuel lines,
throttle cable and choke cable and then it's eight nuts on the inlet
manifold studs and lift off the pair of webers complete with airbox
back plate as one unit(I have replacement O rings and washers, etc.
to rebuild it).
Four of the manifold nuts are easy (top). Two are not easy (under the
front weber) but can be done while the last 2 (under the rear weber)
are impossible and I can't imagine a tool which will help. There is
clearance under the airbox/carb's to the footwell but not even a 5
year old mechanic's hands could work there - and I've looked at it
from underneath and every which way.

I guess I'll have to prop the engine, undo the engine mounts and jack
the engine up to get a bit of clearance to work with.

Have I missed something. Is there some magic here for removing the
carb's that I don't know about (my chassis is fine - no collapsing
tower, maybe my engine mounts upside down?).

Any tips appreciated.
Elliott.
Elliott - 70 S4 dhc
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PostPost by: steveww » Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:43 am

why not remove the airbox back plate? This may give you better access to
the rear carb bottom nuts.

elliottdn wrote:

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Jun 06, 2005 11:04 am

I always pull off the webers with the airbox backing plate attached.
The rear carb bottom manifold nuts are not easy to get at but not
impossible. I use a cut of open ended spanner about 3 inchs long so I
have room to swing it.

The rear most nut is easiest as a hand around the rear end of the carbs
to guide the spanner onto the nut helps. The front nut on the rear carb
the hardest as a long reach in and not possible to guide with the other
hand. It helps to pull off the distributor cap and rotor to give some
working room for your hand to fit under the carbs

Rohan
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PostPost by: Lincoln62 » Mon Jun 06, 2005 12:46 pm

The tool I find the most useful for these types of jobs is a good
imagination. The ability to visualise what you are doing so you can do it
by feel. Kinda like working on a Mini. Pulling the dizzy out makes the job
a lot easier. Also makes it easier to gap and align points when you do it
in a vise.

Cheers Peter
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PostPost by: type36lotus » Mon Jun 06, 2005 12:47 pm

My 2 Cents. 1) Remove all of the air box. 2) remove front carb
(makes access to rear eaiser), 3) remove back carb. LHD Elan as
well as small hands. I reach in from the front of the engine, not
from the side. I also have a complete set of stubby wrenchs, a
requirement for Esprit ownership. Have never had to remove the dist
to do this.

Mike G
66 S3 Elan Coupe'

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PostPost by: Elan45 » Mon Jun 06, 2005 1:08 pm

Mike,

I agree with you. I have some great little Snap-On short wrenches that havebeen a staple for at least 30 years. But I think the other trick I do is use a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6 inch extension, 1/2 in socket and maybe a 1/4 dr u-joint and come in from the side under the carbs. Been a long time since Idid this on the Elan, but the other Weber carbed Loti are equally problematic.

Roger


(makes access to rear eaiser), 3) remove back carb. LHD Elan as
well as small hands. I reach in from the front of the engine, not
from the side. I also have a complete set of stubby wrenchs, a
requirement for Esprit ownership. Have never had to remove the dist
to do this.

Mike G
66 S3 Elan Coupe'

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