Lotus Elan

exhaust header removal

PostPost by: peg_pilot » Sat Dec 04, 2004 10:48 pm

My exhaust header, which is a steel tube aftermarket type (looks like
the one pictured on the R.D. Enterprises website), leaks badly and
needs to be replaced. Can these things be removed without pulling the
engine? It seems very clear that the left side engine mount will have
to come out to even have a prayer of accomplishing this feat. Has
anyone done this? Do you also have to remove the right side engine
mount and maneuver the engine up and to the right? Please note that I
do NOT have a removable engine bay crossmember, which makes the job
even more iffy looking.

Thanks for any advice.
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PostPost by: "Paul Adamson" » Sat Dec 04, 2004 11:36 pm

If you use a jack under the sump (oil pan) and - as you guessed - remove
the left hand engine mount.
You should be able to remove the manifold (header).

It is not a pleasant job but I'm sure that if you persevere, You'll be
Ok.

You do not have to remove the engine.

Good luck.



-----Original Message-----
From: peg_pilot [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: 04 December 2004 22:48
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] exhaust header removal



My exhaust header, which is a steel tube aftermarket type (looks like
the one pictured on the R.D. Enterprises website), leaks badly and
needs to be replaced. Can these things be removed without pulling the
engine? It seems very clear that the left side engine mount will have
to come out to even have a prayer of accomplishing this feat. Has
anyone done this? Do you also have to remove the right side engine
mount and maneuver the engine up and to the right? Please note that I
do NOT have a removable engine bay crossmember, which makes the job
even more iffy looking.

Thanks for any advice.








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CopyrightC LotusElan.net and the author:
"Paul Adamson"
 

PostPost by: elanse66 » Sat Dec 04, 2004 11:40 pm

I used to remove mine by pulling the head off. In fact I usually removed
the head before pulling the block. I didn't have the removable crossmemeber
back then (but I do now). My headers were a two piece design. Cyl 1&4 and
2&3

John
-----Original Message-----
From: peg_pilot [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 5:48 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: [LotusElan.net] exhaust header removal



My exhaust header, which is a steel tube aftermarket type (looks like
the one pictured on the R.D. Enterprises website), leaks badly and
needs to be replaced. Can these things be removed without pulling the
engine? It seems very clear that the left side engine mount will have
to come out to even have a prayer of accomplishing this feat. Has
anyone done this? Do you also have to remove the right side engine
mount and maneuver the engine up and to the right? Please note that I
do NOT have a removable engine bay crossmember, which makes the job
even more iffy looking.

Thanks for any advice.








To search the mailing list archives:
http://www.escribe.com/automotive/europ ... index.html


http://www.lotuselan.net/publish/legal_stuff.shtml
elanse66
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PostPost by: "Stan Aarhus" » Sat Dec 04, 2004 11:53 pm

Once you get the headers off, its helpful to replace the studs with shorter than stock studs. If yours originally used a cast iron manifold, the flanges are thicker than the typical 1/4" header flange, and your studs will be longer than needed. This extra length will make removing the headers MUCH harder than need be. Also, you might investigate the type studs that have a hex on the outside end, allowing you to screw the studs out before moving the header. This will really simplify things. Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads going into the head.

Cheers!

Stan (66 S3 FHC, making progress slowly)
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Adamson
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 5:42 PM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] exhaust header removal


If you use a jack under the sump (oil pan) and - as you guessed - remove
the left hand engine mount.
You should be able to remove the manifold (header).

It is not a pleasant job but I'm sure that if you persevere, You'll be
Ok.

You do not have to remove the engine.

Good luck.
"Stan Aarhus"
 

PostPost by: richboyd » Sun Dec 05, 2004 12:01 am

Do you have the "factory style" head mating flanges, where each port is
separate from the others? If so, your headers will come apart as two
pieces, Cyl 1 and 4 in one piece, Cyl 2 and 3 in the other. You need to
remove the collector Y atthe end of the headers, down near the clutch slave
cyl. The two pieces of this style of header can be wiggled out, with the
engine in place. Not an easy wiggle, but it can be done. Maybe the right
mount needs loosening also - don't remember.

If you have a one-piece flange, like that of the RDEnt header (all ports on
one piece of steel), I don't think you can get the header out without some
serious engine movement. It might be possible if you remove the studs from
the head - but I do not recommend casual stud removal from aluminum parts.

Rich Boyd

At 02:48 PM 12/4/2004, you wrote:


My exhaust header, which is a steel tube aftermarket type (looks like
the one pictured on the R.D. Enterprises website), leaks badly and
needs to be replaced. Can these things be removed without pulling the
engine? It seems very clear that the left side engine mount will have
to come out to even have a prayer of accomplishing this feat. Has
anyone done this? Do you also have to remove the right side engine
mount and maneuver the engine up and to the right? Please note that I
do NOT have a removable engine bay crossmember, which makes the job
even more iffy looking.

Thanks for any advice.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Dec 05, 2004 12:25 am

--- In ***@***.***, Richard Boyd <[email protected]> wrote:
- but I do not recommend casual stud removal from aluminum parts.

Rich

While it is always a risk of stripping the thread I use hex socket
headed unbrako cap screws to secure my exhaust headers. Due to the
large diameter headers I use on the Elan just not enough clearance to
use the standard stud and nut combination.

I also use them on my road going plus 2 just because its easier to
get at them with a ball headed allen key and once they are out
removing the headers is much easier.

I always use plenty of copper or nickel antisieze and they have
always come out and gone in for the last 20 plus years without any
problems. One day I may have to helicoil one of the threads but so
far so good and the risk does not appear any higher than potential
problems with a stud pulling the thread out.

Rohan
In God I trust.... All others please bring data
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sun Dec 05, 2004 1:00 am

Hi Rohan

Aircraft jet nuts are available in six point 3/8" and have a 5/16-
24 thread make more room for taking off the headers.

Gary

--- In ***@***.***, "Rohan Hodges" <[email protected]> wrote:

--- In ***@***.***, Richard Boyd <[email protected]>
wrote:

- but I do not recommend casual stud removal from aluminum parts.

Rich

While it is always a risk of stripping the thread I use hex socket
headed unbrako cap screws to secure my exhaust headers. Due to the
large diameter headers I use on the Elan just not enough clearance
to

use the standard stud and nut combination.

I also use them on my road going plus 2 just because its easier to
get at them with a ball headed allen key and once they are out
removing the headers is much easier.

I always use plenty of copper or nickel antisieze and they have
always come out and gone in for the last 20 plus years without any
problems. One day I may have to helicoil one of the threads but so
far so good and the risk does not appear any higher than potential
problems with a stud pulling the thread out.

Rohan
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