washer completely, and then pull the hub outward. The Outer bearing will come
loose (fall out) at this time. Clean up bearing cage and check that the taper
bearings aren't scored or heavily worn. There will be a 'little' play in the
cage, but not much. Also check bearing race in the hub to make sure it's not
scored either. Put a medium size dollup of new grease in the palm of your hand and
repeatably push the large diameter edge of the bearing into the grease until
clean grease comes out the narrow diameter top. (You're forcing grease in
between the taper bearings at this point). Now do the rear (inner) hub bearing.
Turn hub over, remove the grease seal and then remove the rear bearing and do
the same thing to grease. I usually reassemble with some grease on the bearing
race surface before putting the bearing in place - but you DON'T want to fill
the hub with grease!
Reassemble and rotate hub a lot as you slowly tighten the castelllated nut.
At some point you'll feel the resistance of the bearings. Check the shop manual
- I forget actual torque - but then back off the castellated nut to the left
by one flat and insert the cotter pin. Loosen to much and you'll have too much
end float and hub will wobble on shaft. Not good at all for this to happen.
Should go fast. Easy job.
- brassrngfm at aol.com
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