Lotus Elan

Magnesium 26R Wheel Drive Pegs

PostPost by: Famous Frank » Tue Feb 18, 2020 3:31 am

Does anyone know if the drive pegs that are inserted into the Magnesium 26R Wheels are supposed to be pressed in place or are they suppose to be just inserted with your fingers and then attached with the nylocs?

I have a new set of Magnesium Wheels. The Drive pegs were removed from the old Magnesium Wheels before I purchased the car. I cleaned the drive pegs and attempted to insert them into the new wheels to no avail. I have a press and could probably press them in place but before I do that, I wonder if that is the correct thing to do.

Thank you all,
Frank
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PostPost by: baileyman » Tue Feb 18, 2020 2:51 pm

My new parts from TTR slipped in snugly. To tighten them I chucked a flat blade turnscrew in a Workmate and then propped the wheel on top so I could turn the nyloc.
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PostPost by: jabingb » Tue Feb 18, 2020 6:15 pm

Frank,
The drive pins came out somewhat easily from both my original S2 - 6" rims and the S1 - 5 1/2" rims that I acquired many years ago. There is of course a taper that they seat in and are drawn into it as you tighten the retaining nut but don't recall them needing anymore than a tap to get them out or back in. I wonder if the bore simply needs some reaming?
Jerry
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Wed Feb 19, 2020 4:13 am

Thank you Jerry and Baileyman. I just didn't want to mess up a set of brand new magnesium wheels. After cleaning the drive pegs (4 short and 4 long) I attempted to insert them into the wheel openings. They went in about a 1/4" with my fingers but then stopped. It may only be .001 inch interference but I didn't want to damage anything. I then had to use a drift to remove them but it took almost no pressure to do that. I just couldn't pull them out with my fingers. I might put the drive pegs in a drill and hit them with a piece of emery cloth.

Would you use any lubricant or anti-seize ?

Also, is it correct the longer drive pegs go to the rear?

And do your rear wheel spacers fit loosely?

And Jerry, does your 26R still have the small spindly roll bar? If so, do you know what the tubing diameter might be?

Frank
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PostPost by: jabingb » Wed Feb 19, 2020 5:24 am

Frank,
The main hoop is a massive 1" OD and the 2 legs going to the tower attach bolt are .75", probably don't want to know the wall thickness!
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PostPost by: baileyman » Wed Feb 19, 2020 4:39 pm

Longer pegs go on the rear, and then there is a spacer to slip over the pegs to stand the wheel off the hub flange. My spacers are aluminum and interference fit on the pegs.

John
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Wed Feb 19, 2020 7:46 pm

I have owned several sets of wheels over the years and I remember keeping a couple of the pins out of a set of S1 wheels I got before I got the set of 3 from Frank Bertram. I was later able to retrieve the 4th wheel he'd sent to a fellow in California, but that's another story. I remember the pins being a snug fit, but not tight. I suppose you might also heat the wheel a bit.

I also don't remember any taper to the shank of the pins. I would also use anti-seize compound, probably nickel base.

My car is a type 45 Ser 3 that was updated by the original owner in the late 60s when he bought all the 26R bits he could obtain from Hethel. No TT parts on my car, yet.

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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Wed Feb 19, 2020 11:21 pm

Thank you everyone!

I'll do my best on the wheels. My rear wheel spacers wobble around due to the holes being hollowed out. I'll just put that on my list of things to purchase.

Jerry, thanks for the tubing dimensions. My gosh, I have larger tubes on my bicycle! You must still have the original roll bar. Where the tubes merge in the rear, are the tubes just compressed and then a hole was drilled or was the a bracket of some sort welded in.

And I'm guessing the bottom tubes are smushed and then welded to a tube?

Thanks again everyone,
Frank
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PostPost by: jabingb » Thu Feb 20, 2020 6:15 am

Here's the junction of the aft supports, not the best perspective but it shows the union (is it called a rosette?) with the bushing for the bolt.

Also what is the thickness of the rear spacer that's being discussed as there's no way mine can go out any further due to fender rub limitation, and I as mentioned this is an S2 with its original body.
IMG_7115.JPG and
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Thu Feb 20, 2020 9:15 pm

Jerry, spacer pics attached. Mine are crude. The only good thing about them is after I beaded them they look okay. At first glance they appear okay but the pics will represent that they are different thicknesses. Additionally, they are made of steel so are quite heavy for their size. I've included the inside and outside diameter. Poorly made but they are probably 50 plus years old. Tony Thompson states his are 10 mm wide. These are substantially less. Kelveden states theirs are 3/8" wide or 9.525mm. If mine were the same thickness I would use them but as they are different I'll either make or purchase some. Of course I'm a long way from fitting the body to see if I have any clearance.
Attachments
Kelveden 3 8ths spacer.jpg and
Rear spacer 3.jpg and
Rear spacer 2.jpg and
Rear spacer 1.jpg and
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Thu Feb 20, 2020 9:18 pm

A few more pics.
Attachments
TTR rear spacers 10mm.jpg and
Rear spacer 6 outer diameter.jpg and
Rear spacer 5 inner diamter.JPG and
Rear spacer 4.jpg and
Famous Frank

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