Spark Plugs Refuse to Move

PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:46 am

Has any one got any tips on how to extract seized spark plugs?

I've had them soaking in Liquid Wrench/WD40 etc. now for over a week - and the head is off so I've been able to apply copious quantities to the plugs in the combustion chambers as well as the top-side.

All 4 refuse to move either by tightening or releasing.
Steve
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PostPost by: jono » Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:50 am

Steve,

Would it be worth warming it up in the oven?

...when the missus it out Christmas shopping of course :D

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PostPost by: Elanconvert » Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:52 am

hi steve
I'm a newbie to elans, but had a tip from my uncle on this a few [ok several] years ago....
heat the head up [in an oven preferably - wrap well in foil if objections from better half],
then spray plugs with something like this;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190950379642? ... 1381wt_904

worked for me on an old air-cooled vw head...

cheers
fred

ps. in order to concentrate the freeze spray on the plug, I used a box spanner over/on the pug and sprayed into that ....
'Never give up!....unless it's hopeless.....'

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PostPost by: TeeJay » Tue Dec 17, 2013 11:05 am

Hi Steve.
I am with the others in warming the head, but be careful not to deform it.

As your head is off, I assume you have removed any carbon deposits.

The head should be warmed uniformly to no more than 150 degrees Celsius.

To ensure "uniformly" the oven must be large enough to take the head and then turn on the oven when the head is positioned. Take the oven up in 2 stages, 100 then 150. It's also very useful to have a independent temperature check, I used my multi meter with its temperature attachment.

Freds freeze spray contained by a box spanner is a useful tip.

And as the others have suggested if you do it in the home oven, ensure your other half is out on a long shopping trip. It does create a smell. I had 20 questions when my wife returned. My excuse was that I burnt my lunch. :wink:

The photo shows how I extended our oven to take the head. Removed the door and the metal box was a good fit to the door seals. :)
Extended Oven.JPG and
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:23 pm

AlfaLofa wrote:Has any one got any tips on how to extract seized spark plugs?

I've had them soaking in Liquid Wrench/WD40 etc. now for over a week - and the head is off so I've been able to apply copious quantities to the plugs in the combustion chambers as well as the top-side.

All 4 refuse to move either by tightening or releasing.


Soaking with penetrant from the top will not do much good as the spark plug seal will prevent anything reaching the threads. soaking from the bottom and heat and chill cycles should eventually free them up. Take them out carefully working them in and out once they start to move and try to get more lubrication in as it is easy to pick up the aluminium threads.

cheers
Rohan
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PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:37 pm

Rohan - thanks for the advice - I'll now concentrate on the underside!!
Steve
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PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Tue Dec 17, 2013 12:49 pm

After reading Gordon Lund's book, I thought I would try PlusGas which is a brilliant penetrating fluid. Use heat, then soak with PlusGas and if you have to - repeat and leave for 24 hours.I don't think WD40 is a good penetrating oil compared to this stuff :wink:
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PostPost by: peterexpart » Tue Dec 17, 2013 3:30 pm

I don't know about Warming a Cyl Head but I cooked the Red Crackle Finish on the Cam Cover in our Oven and 6 Months later my wife is still complaining that she can smell it when she turns the Oven on !!!
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PostPost by: nomad » Tue Dec 17, 2013 3:49 pm

For marital bliss I'm not sure I would recommend the oven. I used to use the wife's oven regularly to remove and insert bearings into motorcycle cases. Even if I washed them with hot soapy water she seemed to always know when I had done it!

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PostPost by: ricarbo » Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:03 pm

Agree, release similar metals with heat and dissimilar with heat shock as Fred suggests.
I always put a little graphite powder as sold in lock shops on the plug threads, in the hope of avoiding your situation.
regards
Richard
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PostPost by: ecamiel » Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:57 pm

Try PB Blaster - from the combustion chamber side
It's the best I have used - miraculous.
No connection, etc,

http://www.blastergroup.com.au/PB_Blaster.html

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PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Wed Dec 18, 2013 2:16 pm

Hi Eric,

I can't get PB Blaster in the UK - the best equivalents here appear to be "Liquid Wrench" or "Plus Gas".

I'm still soaking the plugs (from the combustion side) !!!
Steve
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Wed Dec 18, 2013 2:58 pm

A step before the oven, could be to use a heat gun and concentrate the heat at the area around the plug. You'd have to go plug by plug, but I have had good luck with this approach. Dan
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PostPost by: tonyr27 » Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:15 pm

An equal mix of auto transmission fluid & acetone makes a releasing fluid which is a much better than Plus Gas etc.

Just obtained the acetone as starting refurbishing my Plus 2 front suspension over Christmas. the goodies arrived from Sue Miller today!

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PostPost by: twincamman » Wed Dec 18, 2013 11:09 pm

SOME TIMES a slight tighten on the plug will break the seal on over tightened nuts The same may and should apply to spark plugs ....it's worth a try .....Ed
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