Block Welding Query

[AlfaLofa]

I have a 701M block (# (L)P28378) which is damaged where one of the dowels is inserted in the rear face.

These photos show that a piece has broken off.

Is it possible to repair this kind of damage ???

[gus]

Truthfully there is not a lot of load outboard of the bolt head in this position. You could have it nickel welded to that the dowel stays put, but I doubt it will have much impact on stength

Would I sink a bunch of money into a block that has been tossed around.......

[rgh0]

I agree with Gus. It is weldable but may crack again at the weld if it sees any big loads. You could probably use as is with a suitably shaped and thick washer under the bolt head to pick up the remaining section of the broken lug.

Worth finding a good cast iron welder and asking them what they think and the cost but you can probably buy an OK second hand block for what it will cost to repair.

cheers
Rohan

[JJDraper]

I have an identical problem with a snapped lug on the block of my +2. I worried about it for a few years, but no longer bother. The damage occurred before my ownership & the car has done 100k miles since then. I suspect welding could cause the block to distort, so the caps would have to be line bored - is it worth the risk? After many year with a thick washer and hope, a more lasting repair was done a couple of years ago with a steel strip (might be an old hacksaw blade) and a couple of small bolts to effect a (probably) permanent repair. Cheaper than weld by some margin, I suspect. Picture shows the repair in situ.

Repair or bodge? You choose.

Jeremy

[rgh0]

If its lasted 100k miles then by definition its a permanent repair
To make it a little more sound in an engineering sense I would have used a larger washer to pick up more of the remaining lug. I also would have made a shaped steel section to replace the broken side and have clamped that on with the strip, this way the bolt does not see a side load due to off centre clamping load which could lead to a problem - but obviously has not in your case.

cheers
Rohan

[AlfaLofa]

Jeremy - thanks for the posting and picture.

An excellent solution.

I'll go down the same route - but will also incorporate Rohan's recommendation regarding the shaped steel.

[john.p.clegg]

and just to add...I would fill the space with epoxy putty (grease the thread first)..

John

[AlfaLofa]

Hi John - yes I intend to go "belt and braces".

I was thinking that it would be a good idea to grind the breaks flat and then shape the steel so that the space is minimalized.

I'm also thinking of having the shaped steel and strip fabricated as a single unit (if possible).

[SJ Lambert]

I recently had a similar repair done to a 681F block where it was missing the entire "ear" back to the step.

I cut off the corresponding ear from a 711 block that had allowed a con rod to make a bold bid for freedom & got my machine shop guys to weld it on. I reckon it will go the distance!!

[AlfaLofa]

SJ - If only I had a spare ear and a tame welder

[SJ Lambert]

I lopped the ears off both sides of the donor block - from memory the one I used was the exhaust side, so I may be able to find the jackshaft side one if you locate a welder who's confident they can do the job let me know!!

My guy used the bellhousing to ensure perfect alignment on remaking it.

[Chancer]

In the day I saw engines running with only one loose and battered bellhousing bolt retaining the engine

Two would be the absolute minimum to get back home driving carefully, four adequate, any more than that is a luxury!!!

Look how few fixings there are on some other vehicles, air-cooled VW for instance.

[AlfaLofa]

Hi SJ - thanks for the offer.

However, from what I have now seen/read about welding cast iron, the welding may be a bit of problem where I live.

I'll see if I can get a repair made as per the recommendations above first - if that fails I might come begging.

Probably nothing will happen now until after Christmas.

Regards,
Steve