Rear spindles/hub shafts-replace?

[rgh0]

Forgot mention .....I would also crack test the shaft before reassembly.

you can buy dye penetrant crack testing kits cheaply and worth doing when ever working on highly stressed parts

cheers
Rohan

[Davidb]

I have ordered two new shafts from Kelveden... I can stand cracks and scuffs in the body but not questionable highly stressed mechanical parts-racing taught me that if nothing else.

[alan.barker]

Jon,
said quote "apply permanent marker". For info Engineers Blue is different
Alan

[JonB]

Yes, I know what Engineers Blue is - we used it in Metalworking at school (waaaaaaay back in the '70s). That said, I haven't got any so will use a marker pen.

[alan.barker]

Sorry if you already know but for others on the forum here's a small reminder.
"Marking Out Blue" which dries and is diluted with methylated spirits. You then use a scriber to mark measurements.
The other "Engineers Blue" (or Micrometer blue) which does not dry out is used to check contact areas.
I hope that helps someone to see the difference.
Alan

[Chancer]

The former (usually) comes in a bottle, the latter (usually) in a tube like toothpaste.

I have not used either since at least 2004 and I am missing my previous life, time for a regression!

[alan.barker]

You mean you haven't ground in any Valves or worked on your Drive Shafts/Hubs since 2004, that must be some sort of record
Alan

[1owner69Elan]

Engineering blue, below called "Non-drying Prussian Blue":

Readily available (Amazon).

Instructions:

"Coat parts with a uniform film of Prussian Blue. Assemble in working position - turn shaft, improper fitting will show up as definite, easy-to-see, bright streaks."


It can take a while, but you will know when you have achieved a proper fit.

[Chancer]

Sadly Alan that is absolutely true

Loads of building and renovation work, the whole Spectrum, turning an abandoned for d?cades building into a now thriving Apparth?tel, now its meet & greet, housekeeping, washing, ironing and taking money with some running repairs.

I did see my valve lapping tool recently and all the rubber had perished , wont be able to buy one of those from the local motor accessory shop any more methinks.

I did change all the fluids and restart the Elan over 5 years ago, an old topic was restarted and I read my posting about it, its time to drag it out and do it all over again.

This forum is my only tenuous contact with my former being and I really appreciate it!

[JonB]

Sorry if you already know but for others on the forum here's a small reminder.
"Marking Out Blue" which dries and is diluted with methylated spirits. You then use a scriber to mark measurements.
The other "Engineers Blue" (or Micrometer blue) which does not dry out is used to check contact areas.
I hope that helps someone to see the difference.
Alan

You're right to point it out Alan, thank you. I think I was having a bit of a bad moment...

[Chrispy]

I did see my valve lapping tool recently and all the rubber had perished , wont be able to buy one of those from the local motor accessory shop any more methinks.

I saw one at my local auto shop the other day. Even available in two sizes!

[alan.barker]

Most have big sucker one end and small sucker the other. Use of it is something like trying to light a fire at a Brussel Sprout Camp
Alan

[Davidb]

I finally got around to replacing the shafts/spindles and came up with a quandary.
My car is a 65 S2 and has the earlier rear hubs with the two bearings the same size. The new shafts are made for the wider inner bearing apparently fitted to later cars. We made up spacers (approx. 0.315" wide) to fill the space and all seemed well until I fitted everything together. Now I find that the (new from the same supplier) brake rotor/disc rubs on the brake caliper body. If I fit a small shim-maybe 25 thou between the caliper and the mounting bracket then the wheel turns freely and the brakes will be fine.

Anyone else have a similar situation?

[Frogelan]

David,

Your thread is useful as I have a similar car and the Issue 16 hubs to yours and I had been wondering about subjects like this...My hubs are with Kelvedon for this very operation (project a little delayed as Kelvedon are in the middle of a move, itself delayed apparently by the cable operators in Britain)...

If you have any photos I can find out more as I am keen to be able to solve this type of subject once the parts come back!

Andrew

[rgh0]

There are a bunch of tolerances on the new and old parts that can add up and make the fit problematic between disk and caliper. You need to try to compare all the new parts with the old parts to see if any difference in the critical dimensions that add up to the interference between disk and caliper. In the end shimming something may be needed

Another potential issue is the issue 16 hubs ( excuse the pun ) I believe did not have the dust shield fitted originally. If they have been fitted and the hub machined to make space for them then the location of the disk would move about the amount you describe.

Not experienced in the Issue 16 hub apart from an old and very original one I have had sitting here unused for 30+ years ( without the dust shield) so others with early Elans may know better

cheers
Rohan