Refitting window frames into Sprint doors

PostPost by: bloodknock » Mon May 15, 2017 6:45 pm

Hello Gentlemen
I would appreciate any guidance, advice, dos and donts regarding the refitting of the window frames / windows into the coupe doors. Is there a recognised sequence in fitting the frames or any special techniques to employ?
These were removed over twenty five years ago, i do remember there being a number of largish washers inside the door upon removal and i assume these were used to pack the door frame to align the upper portion in the door aperture.
Thanks in advance
Bob
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Mon May 15, 2017 7:26 pm

they come in at an angel and with one corner: with these two options you're all set: i forgot which corner comes/goes 1st sandy - PS I cleaned my loom up as i shorted the tach / coil circuit which led to partial insulation meltdown B U T not within the actual main core loom. only the areas which looked out melted because they kept cool because they are in the loom where all the other cables are protected package of internal cables: 5-8?C garage temperature - so it was 3 pairs of connectors, some new cable AND much LUCK!
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Tue May 16, 2017 12:25 am

Make sure the upper setscrews don't go through to the glass!
One inch max to avoid breakage.
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Fri May 19, 2017 8:51 am

Hello again
I've stripped my sprint frames to treat the lower half which was rusty (surface not rot). Found that there was a small crack, barely visible, near the top mounting point for the window wind motor. Ive "hole stopped" the crack and am introducing a reinforcement strap in the affected area.
All else seems in good order and i'll shortly be reassembling the windows into the doors. its information and advice in respect of this that I need if anyone can help?
Regards
Bob
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Fri May 19, 2017 6:25 pm

dsc04095.jpg and
Original crack in drivers door
dsc04095.jpg and
Original crack in drivers door
Here are a few photographs as I refurbish the door frames.
Attachments
dsc04103.jpg and
Should the lower frame plate be distorted like this?
dsc04101.jpg and
Crack in passenger door frame in same place as that on drivers door
dsc04099.jpg and
Both doors corroded in the same way. Not rotted.
dsc04098.jpg and
Repair stiffener fitted to drvers door
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Mon May 22, 2017 12:16 am

Installation is straightforward but (as everything on an Elan!) needs a bit of care.
Install at an angle front end first.
Watch out for the regulator pinch bolts fouling the outer skin, easier to get through towards.the middle of the slot.
Same goes for the cable spool.
Rock it level with final move being forward to engage lock plate at rear.
One of mine had a slight rattle between door and outer chrome so I put a very fine bead of silicone on the inside edge.
Then pull up on mountings ensuring that frame stays in a plane for accurate glass movement.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Mon May 22, 2017 12:24 am

Looking back at your question about spacer washers.
The upper mounts will probably mot need any as you will be pulling frame into car to get the card under the lip.
Having got that position you'll want the frame to be parallel with the screen pillar for even compression of the door seal - pack to suit.
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Mon May 22, 2017 5:56 pm

Thanks Mark
Im a little confused over this bit, can you clarify please?
""Watch out for the regulator pinch bolts fouling the outer skin, easier to get through towards.the middle of the slot.

Bob
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Mon May 22, 2017 8:20 pm

Hi Bob
The bolts through the glass pinching the regulator wire sticko out beyond the main frame, as as they are notched they can catch on the outer door skin as you lower.
The middle of the slot between the skins is easier to spread to get them through.
I'd say that having a second pair of hands is useful for this job.
Mark
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PostPost by: bloodknock » Mon May 22, 2017 9:19 pm

Gotcha! thanks Mark
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