Electric headlight lift

[jk952]

I just installed this, bought two servo's, four 1/4 - 20 bolts along with some rubber coated washers and regular and nylock nuts; also a dpdt (double pole double throw) polarity reversing switch, that is all. Oh, forgot to mention, the servo's have internal limit switches at both ends, so I just hold the momentary switch till they stop.
Drilled a new hole in the pod and one in the fender, a little tricky to adjust but not bad. If one had the federal cross bar one servo would do it, easier for me just to install two servo's.
It takes about 6 sec. to lift, but here (Canada) we rarely flash ones lights so not an issue. (besides headlights on while on the highways a good idea anyway with all the fool pick-up's and vans)
Easily reversible to the old system if one wanted.

Jack

[elansprint]

Jack any info on the servo's that you used
Thanks
Ian

[jk952]

Ian,
"Hydroworks" made or private branded for http://www.princessauto.com
Pn 8489049, 12v, 2 in. stroke, .31 in/sec (= 6.5 sec full stroke), 135 lb capacity!
the switch is pn 846793.
They would be about $60 US each if I convert, the Cdn dollar is low presently.
I drilled the pod hole 1/4 dia. at about 1.63 radially from the existing pivot and 1.0 in. on centre forward of the existing pneumatic actuator hole. You can slot the hole a bit radially if needed for adjustment, thus the rubber coated washer to prevent slippage ( bolt head on actuator side). In total for two actuators, three bolts 2 in. long, and one 3 in. for the rh rear where the inner fender is a different shape. You can slot the fender hole horizontally a bit if needed. I did the pod hole first then used the actuator to locate the rear hole. I repurposed two of the wires for the std. headlight flashers, fender switches etc. which I removed so I didn't need to run more wires up front (and marked up a wiring diag. so I would remember )
Not sure what country you are in, hope this helps, thanks for asking.
Jack

[TroonSprint]

Not wishing to detract from what appears to be a very neat installation, but using MX-5 motors is much cheaper and simpler. You can use the existing attachment holes in the pods, and the wiring needs no extra switches on the dashboard - it all operates from the existing headlamp rocker switch through a changeover relay. Switching the rocker to the headlamps position actuates the motors and the pods are fully raised in less than one second with the lights already on. The motors cost me ?30 for the pair on ebay, there was about ?5 spent on ball joints and threaded rod, and I fabricated the brackets from steel I had in stock.

Mike

[jk952]

Mike, your point is well taken, and the faster lift would be nice; cost for me though not much different by the time I pay freight from US, exch. etc, couldn't find Mazda motors locally at the time and new ones are five times the cost.
Jack

[Briggs1]

I had Toyota headlight lifts in my Plus 2. First one died so I bought another.

It got flakey, would go up and down non stop unless I managed the headlight switch perfectly.

I went this route (linear motors) instead. I used the 4" lift models. I could have used the 2" and leveraged for faster action. These can be purchased on Ebay for about $50. Certainly no more expensive than regular headlight motors. The lift and drop is certainly slower, but that has not bothered me.

I used two SPDT relays inline with the headlight wiring so when the low beams are turned on the headlights go up.
When turned off they drop.

Personally, I'd go this route again over the regular rotating headlight motor system. These were actually easier to install.

My .02$ worth.

Briggs

[Elanman99]

This link is to a previous thread on the electric headlamp lifter subject.

lotus-electrical-f38/electrically-raised-headlamps-t12924.html?hilit=headlamp


Ian

[mrdoow]

Here is how mine worked out on my 72 Elan Sprint

https://vimeo.com/121292869

[elansprint]

Thanks everyone for the input
Ian