Rear stub axle.

[elanman3]

It?s a little disconcerting when your back wheel overtakes your front wheel. A quick change of underwear is needed. Initial cause appears to be that the garage who changed the wheel bearings for me failed to correctly torque the nylock nut holding on the wheel hub.
However while checking for damage I noticed that the wheel spinner (passenger side rear) tightens anti-clockwise and the nylock nut holding on the hub tightens clockwise, is this correct? The workshop manual and the parts manual are not very clear on this point. If anybody currently has the rear hubs off of their car I would very much appreciate it if they could double check this for me and let me know if it's correct.
Also if anyone has fitted the rear hubs themselves did you use thread-lock as well as relying the nylock nut? What do you racing guy?s do?

Colin

[M100]

It's in the manual. Section G Page 8

Just remember that the centre lock threads on the Elan always tighten towards the direction of rotation, i.e. Clockwide threads on RHS, anti-clockwise on LHS. The stub axle nylocs, and if I recall correctly all other threads on the car, are normal right hand (i.e. tighten clockwise) threads.

I found no desperate need for locking compound, something like Loctite 242/243 (screwlock) wouldn't do any harm but it's not essential. Nylocs can be reused a few times BUT i'd always use new ones from a known supplier for critical applications like the hub nut.

[avhation]

The nyloc nut which secures the hub to the shaft has a right-hand thread on both the left and the right side.

[type26owner]

You really should follow the advice in the Dave Bean Catalog. This is the direct result of not doing so. That shop is not at fault here, that gripping taper with the round key pin is dodgey at best when assembled with no Loctite.

[curly type 26]

Did they refit pin or was it missed out i have performed this simple task some hundreds of times over the last 30 +years without locktite or similar have sprinted and driven like i was in a grand prix and never lost a wheel! if pin left out hub would start to rotate on shaft eventually loosening nut.Good luck Colin.

[miked]

I obtained the nuts from Tony Thompson. He gave me a write up about lapping the hub on the taper with grinding paste to ensure a good fit. Also some info about the pin position and it fouling. I would imagine there a a lot of cars with tapers that have marks that dont allow the hub to seat properly.

Mike

[type26owner]

The loctite is needed to stop the fretting corrosion. Do a goggle search if don't know what I'm talking about. That rust is rather special stuff.

[elanman3]

Thanks for all of your posts. It'll be a belt and bracers approach when reinstalled, new nuts and loctite, both sides.

Thanks again.

Colin

[type26owner]

Just remember you've got the Loctite in there next time you go to remove a hub. It must be heated up to ~350F for the Loctite to melt. Ironically as noted in the DB catalog when it does melt it acts like a lubricant and hub will pull free of the axle with a lot less force then if it was left dry.

[M100]

You really should follow the advice in the Dave Bean Catalog. This is the direct result of not doing so. That shop is not at fault here, that gripping taper with the round key pin is dodgey at best when assembled with no Loctite.

Maybe those based outside the US are missing out on what could be useful information here. Any chance of someone scanning the Dave Bean catalogue on this specific point (or preferably the whole lot) ?

I can stitch together individual page scans to make a pdf file if required.