failsafe vacuum headlight system

[jeff jackson]

Hi all,
After 16 years of +2 ownership, I have finally got a properly working pop-up headlights!
I have repaired and made do with that awful solenoid valve that controls the vacuum. It finally died at the MOT station a few weeks ago. The young lad was not impressed whe I pressed the solenoid in manually to operate the headlights, and said it would be an MOT failure if the headlights were not up during the test. Pulling one of the pipes off when he wasn't looking sorted that out.
Anyway, I asked Sue Miller how much a new solenoid was, and to my horror was told ?75 +VAT. Sue said she had to charge that much because they are expensive for her to buy in, and she doesn't make much on them.
I have sourced a much cheaper and better alternative, from a company here in the UK called Connexion Developments in Yate Bristol. I spoke to a really helpful chap in the sales dept called Mike, and he understood exactly what I was on about, and turns out he is a classic car nut like us. I ordered the valve and it arrived the next day, for ?27.89 including VAT and postage. (http://www.solenoidvalvesuk.com) 0800 808 7799 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting??????????????0800 808 7799??????end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
The valve works beautifully, is really well made, and for the first time in my ownership of this +2 my headllights go up and down.
I would like to add I have no connection with this company or it's products, but just wanted to pass on super service, and an alternative to the "old" solenoid valve.
The part you need is PU32002A8 1/4 bsp 3/2 N/closed 1/4 bsp exhaust 12vdc.
I have added a few pics of the valve in situ.

Hope it helps someone.
Kind regards
Jeff 72+2

[gerrym]

Jeff, top tip to keep your failsafe vacuum system working is to ensure you have a filter on the solenoid port that allows atmospheric air into the valve, actuator, and ultimately through the non return valve on the inlet manifold and into the engine.

This will stop dust and grit entering the system (and engine).

A pneumatic screw-in silencer does the job. You can get very small compact sintered metal buttons that only protrude out of the port around 10mm.

Regards
Gerry

DR7223.jpg (17.29 KiB) Viewed 3267 times

[jeff jackson]

Hi Gerry, Thanks for the tip. I did wonder about this, and put the elbow fitting on the solenoid ( seen in the photo) so that dust and grit did not drop straight in. I will look around for a silencer.

Kind regards
Jeff

[gerrym]

Hi, Jeff, I've just added a photo of a silencer that I have used.

Regards

Gerry

[Hongokongo]

Hi,
I know this post was some time ago, but I have just bought the valve mentioned.
However, it is different to the existing one, and it came with no instructions how to fit it.
Any ideas please?

[wotsisname]

Thanks OP for the info it was a good starting point. I have just ordered a valve for my +2. Here's an update based on a conversation with a chap at solenoid valves.
I will update again when I have received and fitted.

The website has a new address.

You want a normally open valve
PU300. 1/4"bsp, 12v dc, 0-8BAR, 3/2 port, normally OPEN £30
Also a breather vent, 1/4", EP-02 is the flat type, £1

https://solenoid-valve.world/product/80 ... rs-for-air

I will get the 1/4" bsp tails (probably to 5/16" as this is close to the od of the nylon pipes) from ebay
am sure there are alternatives, no affiliation

HTH , Adrian

[TBG]

I must be a bit thick and confused by the above.. Would it be possible to use this valve in a Non Fail safe System?

[pharriso]

I must be a bit thick and confused by the above.. Would it be possible to use this valve in a Non Fail safe System?

You would just use a Normally Closed (NC) valve instead.

[wotsisname]

Mine is pre fail safe. I believed I wanted a normally closed. The chap I spoke to thought otherwise. Possibly based on the previous buyer (they have the pictures from this post on their website, which may well be a failsafe variant).
Should be able to update in a couple of days.
My lamps stay up for about 20 mins with the engine off... this is a vacuum loss of about 2inHg/min on a gauge. without the switch its more like 1inHg/hr or less... so looking for more reliability.