+2 Dashboard Trim

[david.g.chapman]

I am planning to refurbish my dashboard this winter, and will be taking it out over Christmas.

There is a strip of vinyl covered foam padding on the bottom edge of the dash which I would like to remove with the dash out before stripping off the old lacquer. It looks really tricky to re-fit later, though, without leaving a bumpy mess.

I could leave it on and try and work around it (also tricky), leave it off, or turn on what skill I have, re-fit it and make it as neat as possible.

Anyone else been through this?

Dave Chapman.

[andyhodg]

Dave

I have recently replaced my dash with a new one. The bottom edge trim is actually fitted to a steel backing which in turn is fixed to the dash with small wood screws. I simply removed all the screws and the trim simply lifted off. Fittting to the new dash was equally simple. The attached picture shows the rear of the trim. I did glue the vinyl back into place before refitting.

I did consider getting the trim strip refurbished with new foam and vinyl but decided against it.

Good luch

Andy

[theelanman]

that pic looks exactly how mine was but this is for an early car (pre S IIRC) ...........not sure how the later trim is fitted but Id hazard a guess at pretty much the same way

the thing is that the 'base' of the foam version will be some brittle plastic so just try not to snap it......and hope that a DPO hasnt glued it on with superglue

good luck

[jono]

Dave,

Just gone through the dash strip and refurbishment process with excellent results.

What system are you using for refinishing?

Be happy to give the benefit of my experiences on pitfalls etc if you are undecided or unsure how to go.

Jono

[mikealdren]

Jono,
please go ahead and post, I'm also planning to fit a new dash pad and would appreciate your experiences.

Mike

[david.g.chapman]

My plans for the dashboard (currently with cracked lacquer and some lifted veneer):

1. Remove from car.
2. Remove base trim.
3. Strip existing lacquer with Nitromors stripper down to the veneer.
4. Carefully glue the veneer back down with epoxy resin, or super glue (not sure yet). Use clamps and flat boards/plates to ensure flatness. I will think about using cling film on the boards to prevent then being glued down by mistake.
5. Power palm sander and fine grade paper to carefully flat the veneer- may do it by hand with a sanding block. All too easy to go though to the plywood.
6. Apply varnish, wait to dry, sand smooth. Repeat 10 times?
7. I do not plan to use labels for the controls. I just think it looks better - but that's just me.
7. Refit trim and fit dashboard to car (after sorting the heater out with new felt seals etc).

That's the plan, anyway Any advice will be welcome.

Dave Chapman

[andyelan]

Hi Dave

To give you some reassurance, I achieved excelent results when I refurbished my Europa dash using exactly the technique you are proposing. Just to add some comments which you may find helpful,

I used waterproof PVA glue applied with a hypodermic needle to stick down the lifted veneer, I'm sure super glue or epoxy will do just as well though.

Do use cling film between the clamps and the dash, it really helps stop them sticking together.

I wouldn't recommend using any power tools, do all the rubbing down by hand, its no real hardship.

I applied a light stain all over the dash before the varnish, this helps even out the colour where the woods been bleached by the sun.

The varnish I used was Ronseal Hardcoat thinned 50:50. Brush it on, leave at least 48 hours, then rub down and apply the next coat. You'll need to apply lots of coats, but as each one only takes about 5 minutes to do, just apply a coat every other night, before tea or settling down to watch telly, and you'll soon have a good build up coats .

Leave the last coat at least a couple of weeks, then rub it down with 2400 grit before giving it a final polish with T-cut or similar

Although it took quite a while to do, I think the results were well worth the effort and, in my oppinion, the finished dash looks far better than any of the new ones available, it also cost me less than ?10 to do, so go for it

Andy

[mikealdren]

Hi Dave,
A few of thoughts.

Nitromors is great stripper but you do have to get it all off - would you use water washable or white spirit washable?

I would try a hidden corner first (if there is one). Some paint strippers can also change the colour of the wood (mahagony can go a horrible purple colour) but walnut should be ok.

Super glue isn't great with wood and epoxy can make a mess. I'd stick (!?!) to using a wood glue, waterproof PVA should be great and you can easily wash off any excess with water while it's wet. You can also get glue sheets for veneers that you iron on but I suspect you've only got a few loose corners.

Don't use a power sander, they're too powerful, anyway you only have a small area and it's flat to start with. The surface of the grain will have been raised by any water used but it's easily sanded back.

Clamps and boards are the right way to go but don't clamp too hard or you'll compress the veneer, you only really need to squeeze the glue a bit and press out large air bubbles, it's not going to be a load bearing joint.

Are you going to spray the varnish or brush it and have you decided what sort to use? Polyurethane is easy to apply and fairly impervious to damage but it does tend to yellow with age and it's near impossible to touch up once it's hardened. Not sure myself.

regards
Mike

[jono]

I stripped the original epoxy coating with Nitromors. Rubbed the coating first to open up the surface. It takes quite a lot of applications and patience but it eventually comes off. Neutralise the surface by rubbing down with superfine steel wool and white spirit.

I stuck down some lifted areas with epoxy resin, wood blocks and clamps, using polythene as a barrier. I cut out and replaced a couple of damaged corners using a surgical scalpel and some old burr walnut veneer (I was fortunate enough in inherit a huge box of old and rare veneers from a member of the family).

The bare veneer and entire dash was grain filled with Rustins grain filler mixed with some Rustins walnut stain guaged with some red mahogany stain which gave a very good colour match. This also evened up the colour as the veneer had faded where the original epoxy had lifted.

The edges of the glove box and switch holes were spray painted with 3 coats of dark brown Plastikote paint (having checked it did not react with the subsequent lacquer finish)

Once dry the entire dash was treated with multiple coats of Rustins clear plastic 2 pack coating applied with a small sponge roller. After about 5 coats it was left for 3 days in the boiler house and then completely flatted back to a uniform matt finish using 800 grit paper.

The process was repeated and then flatted back again with increasingly fine wet and dry paper before polishing with the burnishing cream supplied by Rustins.

The results look stunning and the Rustins product is excellent stuff (the same product that Brian May used to finish his first electric guitar )

I tried to lay in the dash transfers beneath the top coats of lacquer however the material attacked it and the figures wnet fuzzy. As said by others the dash looks so good I may ditch the idea of transfers which I always though looked a bit mickie mouse on the original dash.

[john.p.clegg]

David

Rustin's...that's the name I was looking for....can't recommend it highly enough..did my dash and steering wheel in it years ago and am still pleased.

John

[rdssdi]

I replaced my dash with a new one from Prestige Auto Wood in California. It was expensive but very nice. I did not have the luxury of restoring the original as it was so de-laminated and in many pieces. The Prestige dash was thicker by very little but enough to make the original metal "U" not fit. I could have removed some of the thickness from the rear of the dash but as it was assembled, finished and wired I chose to remake the under dash trim. I used a piece of plywood of same thickness and cut to the profile of the dash cut outs. Then I used that as a mold to make fiberglass "U" channel replacements. It was also easier for the upholstery guy to trim. A bit of double stick trim tape (3M) or silicon and it is attached.

The original had small screws (#2?) with cup washers which held the metal "U" channel and the rear portion of the vinyl covering to the dash. Difficult to do using original holes but can be reattached to new dash provided it is the same thickness.

Bob

[david.g.chapman]

Thanks eveyone!

I am overwhelmed by your enthusiatic and useful replies.

No power tools and use PVA glue - Check.

I also like the idea of a mild stain to cope with sun bleaching, although I want to maintain the look of the original burr walnut veneer, which is rather nice.

I will get cracking during my Xmas hols. If I find anything useful to communicate I will let you all know.

Ciao

Dave Chapman.

[RogerSunderland]

If it's any help the January 2009 edition of Octane magazine has an article on the do's and dont's of dashboard renovation.

[jono]

Roger,

Are you the chap with the silver Zetec + 2 I was talking to at Hutton in the Forest laster summer?

jono

[davidj]

Just to confirm what other owners have suggested; don't use varish, it just does not look correct, having used it on other cars and on my lotus, which I stripped off after applying 10 coats! Use Rustins clear plastic which is excellent and gives the original "look". Wish had known this before applying 10 coats of varish!

David